Archive for October, 2005

The Case of the (Angry) Giant Mutant Insect

October 29th, 2005

Weary from the road, I am savoring a double-room to myself and think I’ll treat myself to a long shower and give myself a little facial. How girlie.  Well, I am about to see just how girlie I can be in one night.

As I smear the sticky ‘peel-off’ masque goo on my face, I turn to shut the bathroom door behind me. Turn back to the mirror. Annoyingly, the door opens. I look in the room to double-check that I am indeed alone. No one there (phew). I close the door again, and turn to face the mirror. Now where was I? Oh yes… I dab at the finishing touches of the blue goo as the door swings open yet again, hitting my back and making me jump, startled. This is creepy.

Looking again at the dark interior of the room, I see nothing. The fan has extinguished my candle and the light is off. My heart skips a beat; but I am also getting annoyed… is this a draft from the fan? Is there a ghost in my room? Do I need to lock the bathroom door when I’m in a room by myself? This seems ridiculous. I shut the door more firmly this time, determined to keep it that way short of actually locking it.

Just as I let go of the door, I leap back when I see a HUGE… insect(?) moving above me. It’s coming from the crack between the door and door frame at the top. Imagine a giant earwig 8 inches long and 3-4 inches wide (including legs) with the coloring of a scorpion, running wayyyy too fast along your doorway, towards you in fact as the door swings open (again). You are standing in your birthday suit with sticky blue goo on your face. A very vulnerable position, indeed.

“What-the-&!*$-is-that-what-the-&!*$-is-THAT!!?” I say to no one in particular. ‘Ok, stay calm, stay calm’ – I cover myself with a towel in the face of this new company and back up as I wait to see where it will run and, more importantly, stop.

It decides to rest on top of the door. Its legs straddle both sides and its body rests on top. I can see a giant twin stinger thing at the end of its body, poised and ready. It is PISSED – I had shut the door on it 3 times!

Once it stops, I run into the room and throw on my nearest dirty clothes. Now, what to do? I imagine every creature I’ve killed while girlfriends stood by in terror. ‘Come on, you can kill it. You’ve killed many a beastie…’  But not like this. I know it will take more than one solid whack to kill it, and I’ve already witnessed it’s speed. I don’t think I can do it! I will freak out as it runs toward me with its stinger pointed ahead. I need (gulp).. a BOY. Yes, I admit… swallowing my pride I realize… I need a BOY to come kill this for me.

Yeah… I just need to wait until my masque is finished…

Seriously – I can’t go back into the bathroom at this point, where Mr. Beastie awaits, and try to wash this sticky un-washable goo off my face as he JUMPS from the door (as he surely would) onto my back and attacks me. No, I must wait the appointed 15 minutes and peel the thing off and then go find me a BOY. Why did I choose the peel-off type of masque this time around?!

I sit on the bed and get up every 2 minutes to check that Mr. Beastie hasn’t moved from his spot. If he moves and I can’t find him, I’m going to another hotel – not another room, another HOTEL. With a room on the SECOND FLOOR.

He hasn’t moved. OK, great. Feel the masque.. still gooey. This is the longest 15 minutes of my life. So much for a relaxing facial.

Finally it’s reasonably dry and I peel it off, looking sideways to ensure Mr. Beastie is in fact standing still, which he is. I run outside and thankfully find the guy who runs the front desk of my guesthouse. He’s coming back from town with some buddies. I don’t think he knows what hits him as I run toward him with a frightened, urgent look on my face, (dabbing it now and then to make sure there aren’t any embarrassing blue globs that I missed, which I’m sure there were).

“Um, excuse me… um there’s a HUGE SCORPION in my room.. uhhh..”

He looks at me blankly.

OK, uh, uh…. language barrier. Language barrier… Um.. I have a PROBLEM” ..I glance at my room. He follows my gaze.

Still blank.

mycentipededrawing

I clear a section of dirt with my shoe and draw something that looks more like a mouse with tentacles than a scorpion or giant earwig or whatever the hell the thing is. The point is made – he knows he has to kill something. He nods and I motion back to my room. As we near my door he grabs a broom. Perfect.

I lead him toward the bathroom, but stop short of going in, pointing up toward the door. He steps in and looks at the walls, the ceiling… He’s not seeing it!!  He steps in further, dangerously close to The Beast and starts pointing the broomstick toward the far corner of the ceiling, just past the door. I firmly grab his shoulder and pull him back.  He’s getting too close. I step closer and point until my finger is only a foot away from The Beast.

He jumps back, now completely tense, and we share a frightened look. We share the fear, and I’m not feeling as sissy-ish as before. :) Well, except that I go stand on the BED as he gives the thing one good hard whack and it falls, flailing and running in mid-air, to the floor. As I’d suspected, one isn’t enough. He takes the broom handle like a baseball bat and proceeds to beat the hell out of The Beast. It keeps moving and twisting (and I’m screaming from the sidelines). Finally he takes the tip of the broom handle down and puts 100% of the force on its head, smashing it down several times as the tail flails about from right to left.

All in all it takes about 20 beatings to kill the thing, and it’s still twitching from rigor mortis as he starts looking at my garbage can as a disposal container. From the bed I say “no, that goes outside” and point to the front door. He laughs and sweeps it outside. I thank him profusely and follow him to the doorway, making sure he sweeps it WELL away from the threshold.

He looks at me and says “Only one?”
This confirms my greatest fear. “They travel in PAIRS?”
He looks at me blankly.
OK, um… “Are there usually more than one?” I say while doing the scuba sign for buddy, drawing both my index fingers together and making a do you understand what I’m saying here kind of face.
Still nothing.

I pull him inside again and we look for whatever friends this thing might have. Nothing. Great, ok. Now I can go to sleep. Or can I?

You know how when you see a spider and turn the lights out, you feel like there are spiders crawling on you? Yeah.
Sweet dreams.

P.S. I did a search on “Giant Scorpion Earwig Mutant” and actually found the critter – it was a centipede. Never seen one this big.  I wanted to take a picture, but was too worried the flash would freak it out and it would leap on me and eat me alive. Sorry. ;) So you’ll have to go with the one below for reference.

Giant Centipede, from Thaibugs.com

Giant Centipede, from Thaibugs.com

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Northern Thailand and Laos – Flooding and a Broken Toe

October 7th, 2005

Slideshows:

In the last few weeks, I’ve wandered from Bangkok’s massive markets, to a cooking class in the north of Thailand, survived a flood, and landed in Laos. It’s been an exciting few weeks. In many ways I feel like the real travel is just beginning… Beach time is over and now I’m really hitting the road.

I mentioned flooding in Chiang Mai in my last post. Well… it had been a month since the flood when I got there, and the night market was JUST reopening. The city was hit pretty hard.

I decided to try my hand at left-of-the-road motorcycle riding and happily clutched the keys to my shiny rented 100cc red Honda Dream. Of course I picked rush hour to start, and managed to get myself completely lost. Reading signs in Thai can be a problem. ;) After four and a half months of being in left-lane countries, driving on the left was luckily a snap. It was dealing with what I call “flow motion” that was more exhilarating… It was interesting to both be aware of everyone around me while at the same time figuring out where to turn.

On my birthday, did a quick visa run to Burma and spent the evening bar hopping with new and old friends in Chiang Mai.

The Rolling Birthday Bar - best invention e.v.e.r.

The Rolling Birthday Bar - best invention e.v.e.r.

How to drink from a bucket

How to drink from a bucket

Soon after that, I took a day-long cooking course with a couple from New York who are also travelling the world with no schedule. Learned how to make red curry, cashew chicken, and mango in sticky rice. Mmm.

The result of a days cooking class: mmm...

The result of a day's cooking class: mmm...

After this, we continued north to Pai in the north of Thailand. I was hoping for some more adventure: rafting, hiking, whatever!

So, here is some trivia for you: apparently, in Thailand, it is “good luck” if Gecko poo lands on you. Kind of like how it’s “good luck” if a bird poos on you. Who is coming up with these?? I was sitting in an office booking a rafting trip when tap something hit my head, and then landed on the desk in front of me. I took a closer look, thinking wtf – it looked like a petrified potato bug. The Thai woman sitting across the desk burst into a grin and exclaimed “Good luck! Good luck! Gecko sheet, Gecko Sheet!!” pointing happily at the ceiling, where indeed a gecko was positioned directly above me. Ha. I smiled politely as though it was the most wonderful thing in the world that I’d just been crapped on. Hooray!

Anyway it must not have worked, because we proceeded to get flooded out of town the next day, which obviously also meant the rafting trip was cancelled. (hmpf, no rafting in a flood? what?) This was the storm from the recent typhoon that hit Vietnam, which some of you may have heard about. My aforementioned NY friends escaped from their bungalow in water over waist deep! They had to wade through a strong current of flood-soup before they finally made it to my place.

Luckily (OK, maybe the gecko poo does actually work) I was in a guesthouse that was on higher ground and stayed dry. I still decided to leave immediately to stay ahead of the water… Back in Chiang Mai, they were awaiting the same flood (it’s downstream) and I didn’t want to get stuck. I booked a ticket to Laos for the very next morning, and from the plane I could see just how flooded it got. Word is the river rose 4.7 meters.

And that brings me to Laos. That’s pronounced “Lao” btw – the French added the silent ‘s’ which apparently has resulted in most of the world mispronouncing the name, including me until I got here!

I flew to Luang Prabang, which has sleepy old French colonial buildings and sits peacefully along the Mekong river.

What. A. Wonderful. Place.

The Mekong in Luang Prabang, Laos

The Mekong in Luang Prabang, Laos

I really shouldn’t tell you about it. This is the best kept secret EVER.  Well, maybe it’s not such a secret anymore… people are definitely discovering this country, which I am calling the New Zealand of Asia. Alas, you can see it changing before your eyes. But it was everything I was looking for in northern Thailand and couldn’t find… it isn’t hard to get off the beaten track here and is quite a lot more genuine.

Temple in Luang Prabang

Temple in Luang Prabang

The Mekong at Sunset

The Mekong at Sunset

Still itching to go rafting, I signed up for a kayak/rafting trip from Luang Prabang. Ended up breaking my right middle toe during a river rescue where a couple tipped from their kayak in the middle of a class III rapid. (Nothing like being in a boat together to get a couple to fight). ;)

I learned a lot about river rescues that day. Namely that it’s wise to keep your sandals on, so when you walk along the sharp riverbank afterwards (after your kayak also tips due to mishandled rescuing), you can protect your feet…  I also learned that it’s best not to paddle toward the frothy side of the river when towing a panicked swimmer. I totally went the wrong way. It was fabulous.

Just before The Incident

Happily kayaking just before "The Incident"

Children on a natural waterslide (better said, mudslide) :)

Children on a natural waterslide (better said, mudslide) :)

Child during alms-giving at dawn

Child during alms-giving at dawn

From there I went north to a very small village (with only 4 hours of electricity a day) named Muang Ngoi where I got to go hiking a bit, complete with broken toe. I’m not one to sit around much, but I did limit myself to day hikes. :) The highlight of the trip was walking through striking green rice paddy fields surrounded by limestone karsts up to a village only reachable by foot, trying to communicate with locals in Lao, and trading serenades with three little girls. We sang “Old McDonald Had a Farm” and they then sang beautiful (much more sophisticated) melodies in return.

Children in a small village north of Muang Noi

Children in a small village north of Muang Noi

Rice Farmer

Rice Farmer

Playing around in a waterfall

Playing around in a waterfall

Now I’m back in Luang Prabang and just had a fabulous 2-HOUR massage for SIX DOLLARS. Life is good. Heading south in the morning. We’ll see how things go down there – I hear this place has no end to its wonderful experiences. I can’t wait. :)

p.s. More roosters in Muang Ngoi. I have no qualms about eating chicken.
p.p.s. Yet another Dori reference from folks I met in Bangkok. Hmm.

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