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Diamond in the Rough - Hiking the Mulanje Massif, Malawe |
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DATE: November 21, 2007 New Photos: Fingers tired from climbing and bums sore after some long drive days, we arrived at the base of a gigantic massif in Malawi rising violently some 2-3,000m from the plains surrounding it. The entire area is a national park with huts located throughout, offering weeks of potential European-style hut-to-hut walks through lush rolling hills. While climbing is possible, the walking potential was too good to pass up. I was joined by my favourite Hot Rocker, Duane, and we were set loose for 6 days and 5 nights in the park. The experience was nothing short of magical. We began by a combination of hiking and hitching to another end of the park along with few other Hot Rockers who were on a scrambling mission. We began the trek in the heat of the day with sweat streaming, especially for Duane who insisted on carrying most of our food, which consisted mainly of cans. The man had something ridiculous like 18 cans in his pack. Cans! They go against every grain of my walking body. That's what happens when you plan a 6 day hike at the very last minute.
After slogging up a steep hill for several hours, we finally topped out on the plateau and were stunned by the scenery. It really did look a bit like Europe! The air was fresh and cool, there was green grass, trees... with the occasional Mulanje Cedar-Cutter walking past us with a freshly cut cedar plank balanced on his head. I should mention they put us all to shame - 18 cans look like nothing next to a several-hundred-pound board balanced on the head. Worlds were colliding and it was beautiful. Our first hut was called Thuchila, and a fire was already burning in the hearth when we arrived. Needless to say, we ate well.
The next days saw us through varying elevations - to the top of the highest mountain in Malawi to lower forests, microclimates, fields, pools, and huts. We met some interesting folks and walked with more spring in our step each day, as the cans were eaten. ;) Everything was so... GOOD that we found ourselves repeating "This is soooo cool! Again!" every 15 minutes or so. I put it right up there with Patagonia as one of the best places I've ever gone hiking, and the best part is there WERE HARDLY ANY PEOPLE. Stunning. Remote. Peaceful. I'll let the pictures do the rest of the talking.
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