Paris on Sale

February 4th, 2010 by ontheglobe 2 comments »

I had no idea what I was about to get into. My friend Nacho and I had just finished watching Avatar (if you ever want advice on how to smuggle 4 hamburgers, 2 cokes, and 2 fries in to a movie theater, let me know). I won’t delve too much into my thoughts on the movie other than, yes, I’m a fan, and was happy to have the food. :)

After the film, Nacho, who I swear is more of a girl than I am (ha, he’ll kill me for saying that… better put, he’s a Macho Argentine with a wicked sense of fashion who works for one of the largest cosmetic companies in the world), suggested popping in to a few shops. “Let’s check it out, the sales are on.” It was the first weekend of the famed Parisian Sales, Les Soldes de Paris, the one month of January where stores are legally allowed to discount their merchandise. I thought, ”Sure, why not?” We ducked in to Zara.

Paris Sales & Soldes

Madness. This was the not-as-crowded section.

Dear God. It was utter madness! Think Oxford Street in London right before Christmas, and add the discount provocation. Women with huge bags would literally push you out of their way as they attempted to get to an item they had spotted through the mass of clientele. Shoppers would all but rip the product you were fingering from under your hand so they could try it on first. All etiquette was thrown out the window. People didn’t even bother to say “pardon” as they bumped and shoved their way around the store. It didn’t take long for me to follow suit, there were just too many people and too many collisions to care. It didn’t matter any more, it was what you had to do and everyone accepted that.

Shopper picks nose in Paris

Did I really catch a Parisienne picking her nose? Oh man, I think she's just scratching it, but that would have been awesome.

Now, I am not much of a shopper. I love a good bargain, but am pretty bad at fighting for it. Once I have to rifle through piles and piles of goods and elbow people just to look at a top, I lose interest. This is why, when I do go shopping, I end up spending more than I should. More often than not, I skip it entirely and settle for the dork look.

The prices were actually good, though, so I bit the bullet and dove in to the fray with fervor. Before I knew it, I had an armful of things I didn’t need. The queue to the fitting rooms snaked around the perimeter of the store, so I opted to plant myself in front of a mirror and try stuff on over my clothes. This of course meant fighting for the mirror with the 5 other girls and their piles, doing the same thing. After working up a good sweat, I ended up with a single t-shirt. It is gray with a giant bright drawing of Wembley Fraggle on the front. I proudly held it up to Nacho, who had purchased a classy leather jacket. He smiled politely and said “hehhh, it’s nice… where would you wear it?”

I’m wearing it to work today. I wish I could have videotaped the top-to-bottom look I got from a typically trendy woman as we waited for coffee this morning. I don’t think it’s so bad, so there. I will wear my Fraggle’s googley-eyes proudly.

Wembley Fraggle Tee

My Wembley Fraggle Tee, at work

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Help Haiti

January 14th, 2010 by ontheglobe No comments »

Support Doctors Without Borders in Haiti

I just donated, and so should you. Like, really. Don’t drink your latte today, eat dinner in, whatever.

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Ode to Free Wireless

January 7th, 2010 by ontheglobe No comments »

Taunting me
One little bar
It looks so close
Yet feels so far
Blipping blip
It comes and goes
From the list
No one knows
Refresh refresh
Network list
Click again
I will persist
Waiting, waiting
Will it take?
Hoping, praying!
What is my fate?
God, I promise
To email U
Every night
A prayer or two
If you can step in
Just this once
And keep that network
Free from bounce
Refresh refresh
What is free?
Who’s unlocked?
Please help me!
OMG
No way, no how
Connect! Connect!
Holy cow!
Pages loading
Circles spinning
My heart beats faster
Chat is coming!
But, oh yes
You know what’s next.
-
&#*@!
Connection dropped.
And with a sigh,
Another try
-
Refresh refresh
Network List
Thirty Three
Connections found
Laugh at me
You little locks
Except that one…
That single bar
Which looks so close
Yet feels so far
One click away from
“I love you”
Yet no, instead…
I can’t connect
To the Internet

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The Montmartre Jazz Band

November 16th, 2009 by ontheglobe 1 comment »

The very first time I went for a wander in my “arrondissement,” I heard these guys before I saw them and they drew me in with their toe-tapping Swing. Really wished I had some Lindy Hop partners in town; it would be fun to tear it up in the square with these folks.

Happily, I have noticed they play every weekend. Next time, I’ll make sure to note down their real band name. ;)

Apologies on the terrible filming; please pay more attention to the sound than the video quality!

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Chez Moi

November 8th, 2009 by ontheglobe 3 comments »

I share with you a little video of my new place, where I have been assiduously Hermiting. Warning: bad accents inside. View at your own risk.

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The Hermit, Period.

November 6th, 2009 by ontheglobe 2 comments »

I’ve just arrived in this wonderful city and what do I do? Hide in my little apartment. I go to work in the morning, and home at night, and that’s it. Repeat. What? No running around Les Galleries Lafayette? Or heading up the Eiffel Tower? Champs-Elysées? Louvre, anyone? Nah. Not yet. A little wander around my neighborhood is quite enough, thanks. I’ve now been here more than a week and I don’t have much to show for it. Don’t even have pictures for this post. ;)

It’s the Hermit Period: that time when you first get somewhere after a move, and instead of checking the place out you just feel like stopping for a second. You were going 110mph for the past month and then you’re supposed to have a ton of energy to be a tourist, too? Hah! That will come; there is plenty of time to check the place out. For now, I just wish I had a TV and some movies so I could sit on the couch and veg out. Instead, I’m doing silly things like cooking, reading textbooks, migrating the blog, and listening to university courses by podcast. Who knew? Free uni! Love it. Check out Open Culture and MIT for a start.

Soon I will get stir crazy and pop my head out of the den. Uh, actually that’s ‘sposed to be Tonight. Plan is to go out, if I can drag myself by the hair out the door, kicking and screaming… I have no normal going-out shoes to wear, so I’ll be the dork in big brown (and dare I say increasingly smelly) loafers dancing in a club with a group of (sure to be extremely well dressed) Argentinians and Brazilians. We’re not even going to start until midnight. I’m going to want to be curled up in a little ball by then, lovingly held by my mattress and duvet, but I will persist! Oddly, I’m so desperate for some real exercise that the idea of running to music sounds more appealing than a club right now. But…must get out there, ALLEZ, c’est Paris! Oh dear the place closes at what time? 6am? Go on, be Extroverted for christ’s sake! (Pulls hair tighter ouch! slams door)

I’m getting old. Screw it, I’m crawling into bed (opens door meekly and sneaks in before the crazy Extrovert returns). If I don’t go running or climbing tomorrow, she’s gonna kill me.

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Moving to Paris

October 28th, 2009 by ontheglobe No comments »

Let the next adventure begin! I am now starting to get settled in my tiny studio flat in Montmartre, and it’s wonderful. After all the trials and tribulations leading up to this point, I’m glad I came. In a way I feel like this stint is partly about closing the “Europe chapter” on my own terms, without an economic crisis to send me home. When I go home at the end of this (whenever that may be), it will be because I’m ready. And, I’m almost ready. Stay tuned – some craziness first, of course!

Mime in Montmartre

Mime in Montmartre

Getting here was a significant undertaking in and of itself. I had some pretty stressful last few days, packing up and moving from my apartment, wrapping up projects at one job while starting another (they actually overlapped a few days), and of course saying goodbye to friends and family. (See the “Tough Transitions” post last month).

With two bags of moving material (read: climbing and camping gear) I kissed my patient and supportive guy goodbye in the airport and headed to London, where I have about 10 plastic boxes full of, dare I say, crap in my ever so gracious friend’s attic. I decided the gigantic 18-person Peruvian tent, among other things, needs to go home. Why did I ever bring it to London? I’ll be heading home for the holidays, so this visit to London was as much about moving things to Paris as it was about moving all the extra crap back home. Have to take advantage of flights before I book a shipping company to take the rest.

This led to a record amount of baggage, almost none of it with wheels, to heft onto the Eurostar. I now had three large check-in size bags and three carry-on size bags, only one with wheels. If it weren’t for friends helping me at either end, I don’t think I would have made it.

Packing Light!

The looks I got from the very-well-put-together European business travellers were priceless. Amazingly, the only stranger to help me was a short and plump, sweet-faced African woman on the French platform. She only took my rolly bag, but it allowed me the ability to walk more than 2 meters at a time.

My new place is a small studio flat in Amelie’s hood. It’s pretty awesome. I now know where I’ll be for the next few months. Yay. :)

Le Sacre Coeur

Le Sacre Coeur

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Tough Transitions

September 29th, 2009 by ontheglobe 1 comment »

People often think of the wandering nomad as a sort of exotic creature, living an idealised life with no problems, flitting gleefully from one place to another without a second thought. Sure, there may be some glitches here and there, but it’s nothing compared to the constant wonder, amazement, and adventure of the road, right?

OK, for the most part maybe that’s true. But let me tell you, it’s not all roses. There comes a point for every wanderer where he or she must sort out taxes for multiple countries, visas, currencies, jobs… and any bureaucratic venture  increases tenfold in complexity.

The worst of these moments tends to be in what I will call the Transition Zone.  Planning a move to another country, it’s that time when all the paperwork needs to be sorted out, the house packed up, what to do with the car (if applicable), see doctors & dentists at the last minute (because God knows what those foreign clinics might be like), go through every single possession and determine its keep-worthiness, book planes and trains, pay and close out bills, get all said (remaining) bills online, etc etc. This is usually coupled with ending a job of some sort, as well. It gets overwhelming, fast.

To top it all off, all of your friends and family want to see you not once, but multiple times before you leave. (Bless them, you do love them so). The social pressures of leaving can sometimes cap everything else off, and send you straight intoa panic attack.

Having gone through the Transition Zone several times (and being in the midst of one now) I have some advice to share for anyone finding themselves in a similar predicament. For those of you who know me, do as I say, not as I do. ;)

  1. Pack up early. All you really need is 1 plate and 1 cup, a cardboard table and an air mattress. Get rid of everything else as early as possible – like a month early! You will be happy later.
  2. There’s a sweet spot for the good-bye drinks – if you do them too early, everyone says “well, I hope to see you one more time before you leave!” …. do them too late, and you’ll find yourself potentially squeezed by the growing list of tasks that need to be completed, unable to properly enjoy the evening.
  3. Don’t get all worked up on health scares. People survive all over the world, believe it or not. DO go see a doctor for regular checkups and DO go to a travel advisor, but DON’T let them scare you into thinking you need every vaccination under the sun and/or that medical care abroad is inadequate. And they will. It’s fine out there.
  4. On that note, just in case, I recommend IAMAT as a good place to start if you get ill abroad; they’ll point you to the nicest hospital in the area – usually much nicer than any hospital you went to back home.
  5. You don’t need as much as you think. Pare it down, simplify, and de-stress.
  6. Storage: while friends are a great (and cheap) way to store things, you’ll soon find that you have stuff peppered all over the place and not sure what is where. If you go this route, take a digital pic of your stuff and label the boxes in the pic on your computer immediately. I recommend getting an official storage unit, if you can afford it – it’s safer, drier, and it won’t up and move on you with no notice. Storage units don’t have family emergencies, and the peace of mind is worth something.

I think the key thing is to not procrastinate on your tasks, and not let your task list rule your life. It’s a healthy balance between you-time, packing time, and good-bye socializing time. Schedule these buckets in for yourself and stick to the plan, and you should be fine!

Remember, you can always buy stuff and get stuff abroad, you can always visit a foreign doctor, and you can always have people come visit YOU wherever it is you go. Enjoy the ride.

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Climbing adventures in Wadi Rum, Jordan

April 7th, 2008 by ontheglobe No comments »
Wadi Rum

The red sands of Wadi Rum

Jordan’s sunny disposition and warmth makes it one of my top recommendations for an alternative break. Easily accessible from Europe, it is surprising there aren’t more visitors to this country. There is something for everyone here – ruins dating back thousands of years, stunning scenery, and numerous activities for the outdoor enthusiast. The famous Bedouin hospitality is as of yet unspoilt; the generosity of local people is astounding even as tourist numbers increase and put a strain on the custom. It is truly a unique location, and now is the perfect time to visit, both in terms of tourism and weather (being spring).

Camels in Wadi Rum

Camils amidst the giant walls of Wadi Rum

I am currently camped in the town of Wadi Rum, which rests quietly within a geological wonder. Sandstone mountains sitting on basalt and granite bedrock rise sharply from a flat sandy valley to heights of 1,700m and above. It is a scale that is difficult to imagine even while standing humbly in their presence. Deep, narrow canyons cleave the hard mountains where wind and water carved passageways over millions of years. Ancient Bedouin paths weave through the canyons and offer walks unmatched in the world. The Jordanian government has recognised this as well, and about 500sq km of the area is now a national park, protected by the Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature (RSCN).

Wadi Rum Town

Wadi Rum, Jordan

As little as 35 years ago, this growing village was comprised of a sleepy set of Huweitat Bedouin tents. Today it has paved streets, houses, and 1,500 people who all seem to be related in some way. The modern day Bedouin drives a 4×4 pickup truck with (no joke) his camel in the back and uses a cell phone to chat with family members in camps scattered throughout the desert. Even those who now live in houses are still connected to their nomadic roots. Luckily for them, the national governments have respected this heritage. Locals here can cross the nearby border into Saudi Arabia without passports or visas, and their family on the other side can do the same.

For tourists, Wadi Rum is often an intermediary stop, an afterthought, between the famous Petra to the north and beach resort of Aqaba to the south. Many do not quite know what to expect or what to do here on arriving, looking out the coach windows to see camels in back gardens and friendly taxi drivers and guides reclining lazily in the sun. Inevitably, they realise they did not allot enough time for this gem of a location.

Camel in Wadi Rum

Happy Camel

Activities in the area include jeep rides to remote valleys, camel treks in the desert, canyon walks and scrambles, and horseback rides. Bedouin guides can be hired from the local tourist office or taxi stands – everyone is knowledgeable about the area. I highly recommend hiring a guide for the more adventurous scrambles and walks in the area. This is one of the few places left in the world where locals will surprise you by going above and beyond expectations to ensure you have a pleasant stay in their area. Tea is always on offer, and one friendly taxi driver even invited our group of 15 to his house for dinner. People have welcomed our grimy, dusty group with open arms. It is unfortunate that I cannot do justice to the concept of Bedouin hospitality. It is genuine, honest, and by far the most generous I have ever encountered.

Hot Rock Camp in Wadi Rum

Hot Rock Camp

The Hot Rock group spent 10 days climbing and exploring in Rum. The rock climbing is spectacular, with “short” routes at 4-5 pitches long and the longer climbs upwards of 11 pitches and 700m. Aside from three days of desert bush camping in Barrah Canyon, we pitched our tents at the “Rest House,” a sandy lot on the north end of town complete with restaurant, toilets and showers (tel. +962 032018867). What more could a girl ask for? It is a comfortable camp, the only minor annoyances being tourist busses who park in the neighbouring lot during the day and the occasional loud barking dogs at night. It is in an ideal location for walks and climbs, and also near several shops covering the basics for food. Internet is still not available (for tourists) in Wadi Rum and there are only one or two restaurants, which to me, greatly adds to its appeal.

If you are looking for something different and enjoy the outdoors, I can strongly recommend this area for your next adventure.

This article originally appeared on MSN UK Travel.

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Rejoining Hot Rock in Wadi Rum, Jordan

April 6th, 2008 by ontheglobe No comments »

After four months back in the “real” world, I found myself on a snowy Easter Sunday heading to Heathrow again. This time, I moved entirely out of my London flat and all of my stuff is either donated (again) or comfortably nested in two good friends’ storage spaces in London. I will be forever indebted to them. While I do plan on returning to London, things are in limbo regarding timing etc… so best to put everything on hold for a bit.

On my flight from Amman to Aqaba, a girl watched in alarm as I stuffed a ridiculous amount of duty-free loot into the overhead bin and meekly shuffled into my seat. I noticed she had a Mountain Hardware fleece jacket and an outdoorsy-style backpack. We were the only two women on the plane. I knew that another girl was joining Hot Rock in Aqaba, so I decided to take the leap and ask “Are you Hannah?” Her face flashed about five different expressions in the space of two seconds, from “How the heck did you know that?!” to “Whoareyouthisiscreepingmeout!” to to a final understanding of…”ohhhh, must be Hot Rock!” It was hilarious.

Yes, it turned out it was Hannah, joining Hot Rock, and we embarked on a three day wait for the truck. We were so excited for it to arrive that it was all we could talk about. Every time we heard the loud rumble of a diesel truck on the neighbouring road to the hostel, we’d jump up and look to see if it was BiRT, even though we knew there was no way it could have been. We helped pass the time by exploring town a bit and I went on a couple of dives in the Red Sea. Overall, it was a long three days, but BiRT finally did arrive at about 1am on the 27th of March, and we were woken by Hot Rockers banging on our door.

BiRT Arrives

BiRT Arrives

Sunset in Aqaba, Jordan

Sunset in Aqaba

From there we travelled to Wadi Rum, a spectacular park in the desert where thousand-metre cliffs tower over a sandy valley. We spent about ten days there, exploring gulleys and canyons and climbing a LOT. After not having climbed for a while, it certainly was a shock to the system (but a good one).

My favourite adventure, however, did not exactly involve climbing per se. It was on our second day, when former Hot Rocker Matt Barratt led us through a very well-hidden route in a canyon. He knew the way, thank goodness, from having gone years earlier with a guide. In fact, looking back I am impressed he remembered as well as he did.

I had no idea what I was getting myself into. We scrambled over some very exposed terrain, swam through a chilly bog, and finished with breathtaking abseils. It was definitely an Indiana Jones type of day, and a great introduction to the area. If you ever find yourself in Wadi Rum and you are OK with heights, find a guide (I can recommend Matt, if you can fly him there!) to take you through Kazali (or Khazali) Canyon. It is hands-down the best day hike I have ever done.

Overall, Wadi Rum was absolutely fantastic – I’ll let the pictures do most of the talking. The below are all credited to Duane Kracke.

Hiking Kazali Canyon

Kazali Canyon

Red Dunes

Red Dunes in Wadi Rum

On a climb

On a climb in Wadi Rum

Wadi Rum

Matt and me in Wadi Rum

Classic pose in Wadi Rum

Some exposed technical scrambling

Some exposed technical scrambling, Kazali Canyon

More exposed technical scrambling

More exposed technical scrambling - Kazali Canyon

Exposed technical scrambling

Even more exposed technical scrambling - Kazali Canyon

Exposed technical scrambling

Have I mentioned the exposed technical scrambling? Kazali Canyon

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