Best tourist shot ever, and I missed it

February 21st, 2010 by ontheglobe 1 comment »
Just seen: a group of firefighters with incredibly shiny gold helmets and two bright fire trucks congregating around a building. Next door: a couple nonchalantly sips drinks in the window, obliviously looking into each others’ eyes and down into their straws while firefighters are running in and out of the door just feet away. I begin to curse that I don’t have my camera.

Next, a pretty British blonde in a red coat asks the guys if she could get her picture taken with them. We’re all thinking “yeah right, come on” (I say “we” because now there is a crowd, and the couple in the window remains nonchalant) but the guys oblige (anything to please a pretty lady) and in fact, one of them takes the camera from her friend so they both can be in the shot. THEN, they lift her up!! She screams in glee!! The crowd applauds. Best tourist shot, e.v.e.r.

Never again am I leaving home without a camera.

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Paris on Sale

February 4th, 2010 by ontheglobe 2 comments »

I had no idea what I was about to get into. My friend Nacho and I had just finished watching Avatar (if you ever want advice on how to smuggle 4 hamburgers, 2 cokes, and 2 fries in to a movie theater, let me know). I won’t delve too much into my thoughts on the movie other than, yes, I’m a fan, and was happy to have the food. :)

After the film, Nacho, who I swear is more of a girl than I am (ha, he’ll kill me for saying that… better put, he’s a Macho Argentine with a wicked sense of fashion who works for one of the largest cosmetic companies in the world), suggested popping in to a few shops. “Let’s check it out, the sales are on.” It was the first weekend of the famed Parisian Sales, Les Soldes de Paris, the one month of January where stores are legally allowed to discount their merchandise. I thought, ”Sure, why not?” We ducked in to Zara.

Paris Sales & Soldes

Madness. This was the not-as-crowded section.

Dear God. It was utter madness! Think Oxford Street in London right before Christmas, and add the discount provocation. Women with huge bags would literally push you out of their way as they attempted to get to an item they had spotted through the mass of clientele. Shoppers would all but rip the product you were fingering from under your hand so they could try it on first. All etiquette was thrown out the window. People didn’t even bother to say “pardon” as they bumped and shoved their way around the store. It didn’t take long for me to follow suit, there were just too many people and too many collisions to care. It didn’t matter any more, it was what you had to do and everyone accepted that.

Shopper picks nose in Paris

Did I really catch a Parisienne picking her nose? Oh man, I think she's just scratching it, but that would have been awesome.

Now, I am not much of a shopper. I love a good bargain, but am pretty bad at fighting for it. Once I have to rifle through piles and piles of goods and elbow people just to look at a top, I lose interest. This is why, when I do go shopping, I end up spending more than I should. More often than not, I skip it entirely and settle for the dork look.

The prices were actually good, though, so I bit the bullet and dove in to the fray with fervor. Before I knew it, I had an armful of things I didn’t need. The queue to the fitting rooms snaked around the perimeter of the store, so I opted to plant myself in front of a mirror and try stuff on over my clothes. This of course meant fighting for the mirror with the 5 other girls and their piles, doing the same thing. After working up a good sweat, I ended up with a single t-shirt. It is gray with a giant bright drawing of Wembley Fraggle on the front. I proudly held it up to Nacho, who had purchased a classy leather jacket. He smiled politely and said “hehhh, it’s nice… where would you wear it?”

I’m wearing it to work today. I wish I could have videotaped the top-to-bottom look I got from a typically trendy woman as we waited for coffee this morning. I don’t think it’s so bad, so there. I will wear my Fraggle’s googley-eyes proudly.

Wembley Fraggle Tee

My Wembley Fraggle Tee, at work

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Help Haiti

January 14th, 2010 by ontheglobe No comments »

Support Doctors Without Borders in Haiti

I just donated, and so should you. Like, really. Don’t drink your latte today, eat dinner in, whatever.

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Ode to Free Wireless

January 7th, 2010 by ontheglobe No comments »

Taunting me
One little bar
It looks so close
Yet feels so far
Blipping blip
It comes and goes
From the list
No one knows
Refresh refresh
Network list
Click again
I will persist
Waiting, waiting
Will it take?
Hoping, praying!
What is my fate?
God, I promise
To email U
Every night
A prayer or two
If you can step in
Just this once
And keep that network
Free from bounce
Refresh refresh
What is free?
Who’s unlocked?
Please help me!
OMG
No way, no how
Connect! Connect!
Holy cow!
Pages loading
Circles spinning
My heart beats faster
Chat is coming!
But, oh yes
You know what’s next.
-
&#*@!
Connection dropped.
And with a sigh,
Another try
-
Refresh refresh
Network List
Thirty Three
Connections found
Laugh at me
You little locks
Except that one…
That single bar
Which looks so close
Yet feels so far
One click away from
“I love you”
Yet no, instead…
I can’t connect
To the Internet

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The Montmartre Jazz Band

November 16th, 2009 by ontheglobe 1 comment »

The very first time I went for a wander in my “arrondissement,” I heard these guys before I saw them and they drew me in with their toe-tapping Swing. Really wished I had some Lindy Hop partners in town; it would be fun to tear it up in the square with these folks.

Happily, I have noticed they play every weekend. Next time, I’ll make sure to note down their real band name. ;)

Apologies on the terrible filming; please pay more attention to the sound than the video quality!

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Chez Moi

November 8th, 2009 by ontheglobe 3 comments »

I share with you a little video of my new place, where I have been assiduously Hermiting. Warning: bad accents inside. View at your own risk.

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The Hermit, Period.

November 6th, 2009 by ontheglobe 2 comments »

I’ve just arrived in this wonderful city and what do I do? Hide in my little apartment. I go to work in the morning, and home at night, and that’s it. Repeat. What? No running around Les Galleries Lafayette? Or heading up the Eiffel Tower? Champs-Elysées? Louvre, anyone? Nah. Not yet. A little wander around my neighborhood is quite enough, thanks. I’ve now been here more than a week and I don’t have much to show for it. Don’t even have pictures for this post. ;)

It’s the Hermit Period: that time when you first get somewhere after a move, and instead of checking the place out you just feel like stopping for a second. You were going 110mph for the past month and then you’re supposed to have a ton of energy to be a tourist, too? Hah! That will come; there is plenty of time to check the place out. For now, I just wish I had a TV and some movies so I could sit on the couch and veg out. Instead, I’m doing silly things like cooking, reading textbooks, migrating the blog, and listening to university courses by podcast. Who knew? Free uni! Love it. Check out Open Culture and MIT for a start.

Soon I will get stir crazy and pop my head out of the den. Uh, actually that’s ‘sposed to be Tonight. Plan is to go out, if I can drag myself by the hair out the door, kicking and screaming… I have no normal going-out shoes to wear, so I’ll be the dork in big brown (and dare I say increasingly smelly) loafers dancing in a club with a group of (sure to be extremely well dressed) Argentinians and Brazilians. We’re not even going to start until midnight. I’m going to want to be curled up in a little ball by then, lovingly held by my mattress and duvet, but I will persist! Oddly, I’m so desperate for some real exercise that the idea of running to music sounds more appealing than a club right now. But…must get out there, ALLEZ, c’est Paris! Oh dear the place closes at what time? 6am? Go on, be Extroverted for christ’s sake! (Pulls hair tighter ouch! slams door)

I’m getting old. Screw it, I’m crawling into bed (opens door meekly and sneaks in before the crazy Extrovert returns). If I don’t go running or climbing tomorrow, she’s gonna kill me.

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Moving to Paris

October 28th, 2009 by ontheglobe No comments »

Let the next adventure begin! I am now starting to get settled in my tiny studio flat in Montmartre, and it’s wonderful. After all the trials and tribulations leading up to this point, I’m glad I came. In a way I feel like this stint is partly about closing the “Europe chapter” on my own terms, without an economic crisis to send me home. When I go home at the end of this (whenever that may be), it will be because I’m ready. And, I’m almost ready. Stay tuned – some craziness first, of course!

Mime in Montmartre

Mime in Montmartre

Getting here was a significant undertaking in and of itself. I had some pretty stressful last few days, packing up and moving from my apartment, wrapping up projects at one job while starting another (they actually overlapped a few days), and of course saying goodbye to friends and family. (See the “Tough Transitions” post last month).

With two bags of moving material (read: climbing and camping gear) I kissed my patient and supportive guy goodbye in the airport and headed to London, where I have about 10 plastic boxes full of, dare I say, crap in my ever so gracious friend’s attic. I decided the gigantic 18-person Peruvian tent, among other things, needs to go home. Why did I ever bring it to London? I’ll be heading home for the holidays, so this visit to London was as much about moving things to Paris as it was about moving all the extra crap back home. Have to take advantage of flights before I book a shipping company to take the rest.

This led to a record amount of baggage, almost none of it with wheels, to heft onto the Eurostar. I now had three large check-in size bags and three carry-on size bags, only one with wheels. If it weren’t for friends helping me at either end, I don’t think I would have made it.

Packing Light!

The looks I got from the very-well-put-together European business travellers were priceless. Amazingly, the only stranger to help me was a short and plump, sweet-faced African woman on the French platform. She only took my rolly bag, but it allowed me the ability to walk more than 2 meters at a time.

My new place is a small studio flat in Amelie’s hood. It’s pretty awesome. I now know where I’ll be for the next few months. Yay. :)

Le Sacre Coeur

Le Sacre Coeur

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Tough Transitions

September 29th, 2009 by ontheglobe 1 comment »

People often think of the wandering nomad as a sort of exotic creature, living an idealised life with no problems, flitting gleefully from one place to another without a second thought. Sure, there may be some glitches here and there, but it’s nothing compared to the constant wonder, amazement, and adventure of the road, right?

OK, for the most part maybe that’s true. But let me tell you, it’s not all roses. There comes a point for every wanderer where he or she must sort out taxes for multiple countries, visas, currencies, jobs… and any bureaucratic venture  increases tenfold in complexity.

The worst of these moments tends to be in what I will call the Transition Zone.  Planning a move to another country, it’s that time when all the paperwork needs to be sorted out, the house packed up, what to do with the car (if applicable), see doctors & dentists at the last minute (because God knows what those foreign clinics might be like), go through every single possession and determine its keep-worthiness, book planes and trains, pay and close out bills, get all said (remaining) bills online, etc etc. This is usually coupled with ending a job of some sort, as well. It gets overwhelming, fast.

To top it all off, all of your friends and family want to see you not once, but multiple times before you leave. (Bless them, you do love them so). The social pressures of leaving can sometimes cap everything else off, and send you straight intoa panic attack.

Having gone through the Transition Zone several times (and being in the midst of one now) I have some advice to share for anyone finding themselves in a similar predicament. For those of you who know me, do as I say, not as I do. ;)

  1. Pack up early. All you really need is 1 plate and 1 cup, a cardboard table and an air mattress. Get rid of everything else as early as possible – like a month early! You will be happy later.
  2. There’s a sweet spot for the good-bye drinks – if you do them too early, everyone says “well, I hope to see you one more time before you leave!” …. do them too late, and you’ll find yourself potentially squeezed by the growing list of tasks that need to be completed, unable to properly enjoy the evening.
  3. Don’t get all worked up on health scares. People survive all over the world, believe it or not. DO go see a doctor for regular checkups and DO go to a travel advisor, but DON’T let them scare you into thinking you need every vaccination under the sun and/or that medical care abroad is inadequate. And they will. It’s fine out there.
  4. On that note, just in case, I recommend IAMAT as a good place to start if you get ill abroad; they’ll point you to the nicest hospital in the area – usually much nicer than any hospital you went to back home.
  5. You don’t need as much as you think. Pare it down, simplify, and de-stress.
  6. Storage: while friends are a great (and cheap) way to store things, you’ll soon find that you have stuff peppered all over the place and not sure what is where. If you go this route, take a digital pic of your stuff and label the boxes in the pic on your computer immediately. I recommend getting an official storage unit, if you can afford it – it’s safer, drier, and it won’t up and move on you with no notice. Storage units don’t have family emergencies, and the peace of mind is worth something.

I think the key thing is to not procrastinate on your tasks, and not let your task list rule your life. It’s a healthy balance between you-time, packing time, and good-bye socializing time. Schedule these buckets in for yourself and stick to the plan, and you should be fine!

Remember, you can always buy stuff and get stuff abroad, you can always visit a foreign doctor, and you can always have people come visit YOU wherever it is you go. Enjoy the ride.

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Kalymnos, Greece

May 27th, 2008 by ontheglobe No comments »

This article originally appeared on MSN UK Travel (link).

Masouri Village, Kalymnos

Masouri Village, Kalymnos

 

Most people are familiar with ski villages catering to tourists who ski or board in the winter and walk or mountain bike in the summer. Whistler and Chamonix are prime examples of this highly successful development. As global warming unfortunately piques the nerves of their residents, a new adventure town is on the rise with a rosy future catering to a growing sport. Imagine a community focused almost exclusively on rock climbers, who flock to it from all over the world for their adventure holiday. Masouri village, on the island of Kalymnos in Greece, is of this new variety.

 

Woman climbing in Kalymnos

Woman climbing in Kalymnos

 

Kalymnos is located in southeastern Greece in the Dodecanese Islands. There is evidence of habitation on the island from as far back as 4000 B.C. and there are numerous historical sites and digs taking place. It is actually a fairly recent addition to Greece, having only been included after World War II in 1948 (it was occupied by the Italians and then Germans prior to that). Today one can meander through the narrow cobbled streets and beautiful harbour in the capitol of Pothia, or walk through rugged mountainous terrain to small villages and sleepy coastal towns. The town of Masouri, with a population of 17,000, sees the most tourists. Most of them are climbers who arrive by the thousands each year. The mode du jour is to rent a studio flat, hire a scooter, and ride to a different crag each day. Never have I seen so many fit tourists in one place! Two other towns popular with climbers are Armeos and Myrties nearby.

 

Pothia

Pothia

 

Formerly, Masouri was a sea sponge town with legendary local divers able to hold their breath for 5 minutes. The economy eventually fell into decline after a diseased sponge crop in the mid ‘80s and the introduction of synthetics. This could have spelled the end for many small towns in the area, but it was around this time that an Italian climber named Andrea di Bari discovered the area on accident during a family holiday. Noticing the hundreds of cliffs overlooking the Aegean Sea, he became inspired and decided to introduce the area to climbers worldwide. Since 1999 more than 900 routes have opened up in more than 43 crags all over the island, with more being created on an ongoing basis. This has effectively rescued the community from its impending economic downfall and residents have embraced the sport and its lifestyle. The town really is on the rise; buildings are under construction everywhere and the crags see an enormous amount of activity – it will be interesting to visit in a few years and see how much it has grown.

 

Climbing in Kalymnos

Climbing in Kalymnos, island of Telendos in the background

 

One of the best things about the place, which sets it apart from other popular climbing destinations such as Thailand, is the variety in climbs and difficulties available. Given the sheer number of cliffs and routes on hand, there is a route here to please everyone. Climbers of all ages and varieties are to be seen. A guidebook to the area was put together by Aris Theodoropoulos who teamed up with di Bari and the Greek Alpine Club of Acharnes to publish this well written “Bible of Routes.” It is on sale in town for a whopping 35 Euros, but everyone dutifully purchases a copy.

Climbing is not the only activity available on the island, however. There is much to amuse their non-climbing friends and partners or the climber on his or her rest day. One obvious option is to go diving. Visibility is exceptional and divers can explore underwater wrecks and see the local sponge varieties. Kalymnos even has a decompression chamber in the local hospital which is rare for such a sparsely populated place. Windsurfing, jetskiing, walking, caving, and kayaking are attractive options as well. For the more sedentary folk, there are also atmospheric cafes and restaurants peppering the entire island with excellent Greek cuisine.

If you would like to know more about Kalymnos, some useful websites are the official island site: www.kalymnos-isl.gr and the climbing sites: www.kalymnos-isl.gr or www.oreivatein.com. On the island itself, there is a climbing information desk that never appears to be open and a social atmosphere where people share information quite willingly.

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