On The Globe Again

Seein' things that I may never see again…

Kalymnos, Greece

May 27th, 2008 by ontheglobe No comments »

This article originally appeared on MSN UK Travel (link).

Masouri Village, Kalymnos

Most people are familiar with ski villages catering to tourists who ski or board in the winter and walk or mountain bike in the summer. Whistler and Chamonix are prime examples of this highly successful development. As global warming unfortunately piques the nerves of their residents, a new adventure town is on the rise with a rosy future catering to a growing sport. Imagine a community focused almost exclusively on rock climbers, who flock to it from all over the world for their adventure holiday. Masouri village, on the island of Kalymnos in Greece, is of this new variety.

Woman climbing in Kalymnos

Kalymnos is located in southeastern Greece in the Dodecanese Islands. There is evidence of habitation on the island from as far back as 4000 B.C. and there are numerous historical sites and digs taking place. It is actually a fairly recent addition to Greece, having only been included after World War II in 1948 (it was occupied by the Italians and then Germans prior to that). Today one can meander through the narrow cobbled streets and beautiful harbour in the capitol of Pothia, or walk through rugged mountainous terrain to small villages and sleepy coastal towns. The town of Masouri, with a population of 17,000, sees the most tourists. Most of them are climbers who arrive by the thousands each year. The mode du jour is to rent a studio flat, hire a scooter, and ride to a different crag each day. Never have I seen so many fit tourists in one place! Two other towns popular with climbers are Armeos and Myrties nearby.

Pothia

Formerly, Masouri was a sea sponge town with legendary local divers able to hold their breath for 5 minutes. The economy eventually fell into decline after a diseased sponge crop in the mid ‘80s and the introduction of synthetics. This could have spelled the end for many small towns in the area, but it was around this time that an Italian climber named Andrea di Bari discovered the area on accident during a family holiday. Noticing the hundreds of cliffs overlooking the Aegean Sea, he became inspired and decided to introduce the area to climbers worldwide. Since 1999 more than 900 routes have opened up in more than 43 crags all over the island, with more being created on an ongoing basis. This has effectively rescued the community from its impending economic downfall and residents have embraced the sport and its lifestyle. The town really is on the rise; buildings are under construction everywhere and the crags see an enormous amount of activity – it will be interesting to visit in a few years and see how much it has grown.

Climbing in Kalymnos, island of Telendos in the background

One of the best things about the place, which sets it apart from other popular climbing destinations such as Thailand, is the variety in climbs and difficulties available. Given the sheer number of cliffs and routes on hand, there is a route here to please everyone. Climbers of all ages and varieties are to be seen. A guidebook to the area was put together by Aris Theodoropoulos who teamed up with di Bari and the Greek Alpine Club of Acharnes to publish this well written “Bible of Routes.” It is on sale in town for a whopping 35 Euros, but everyone dutifully purchases a copy.

Climbing is not the only activity available on the island, however. There is much to amuse their non-climbing friends and partners or the climber on his or her rest day. One obvious option is to go diving. Visibility is exceptional and divers can explore underwater wrecks and see the local sponge varieties. Kalymnos even has a decompression chamber in the local hospital which is rare for such a sparsely populated place. Windsurfing, jetskiing, walking, caving, and kayaking are attractive options as well. For the more sedentary folk, there are also atmospheric cafes and restaurants peppering the entire island with excellent Greek cuisine.

If you would like to know more about Kalymnos, some useful websites are the official island site: www.kalymnos-isl.gr and the climbing sites: www.kalymnos-isl.gr or www.oreivatein.com. On the island itself, there is a climbing information desk that never appears to be open and a social atmosphere where people share information quite willingly.

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Olympos and a Climbing Festival in Turkey

May 20th, 2008 by ontheglobe No comments »

This article originally appeared in MSN UK Travel (link).

Ruins of Roman baths in Olympos

The ancient ruins of Olympos lie on the southern coast of Turkey in the shadow of a mountain of the same name. Quietly nestled in a gorge with a stream running to the Mediterranean Sea not far off, it is easy to imagine why the location was selected as a desirable place to build a community. What is not understandable is why anyone left. It is estimated the city was abandoned by the 15th century.

Olympos was founded in the Hellenistic period and today it lies in (imagine this) ruins. It is delightful to walk through the overgrown park and feel as though discovering the mysterious site for the first time. Most “ruins” these days seem to be so artificially preserved that some of the magic of their age disappears. This was not the case at Olympos. Trees grow out of tumbling walls and columns pepper the ground, half buried and looking like logs in a river. It truly is a case where one can accidentally and quite literally stumble upon a ruin.

The area is still not well known with tourists but is definitely growing in popularity. What was once a series of fruit orchards 3 km north of the village of Çirali have now been converted into guesthouses and “tree houses” (which are in effect elevated shacks pretending to lean against a tree). People from all over Europe and most of Turkey flock here to party and relax on the nearby beach. It certainly is strange to hear the thumping of club music just yards from such a peaceful ancient place.

The beach at Olympos, with the "gorge" toward the back right

The gorge near Olympos also provides a slew of outdoor activities. Trekking, climbing, kayaking, swimming, and rafting are all on the list of options. It is also a popular stopping point for trekkers on the famed Lycian Way (a 500km trail from Fethiye to Antalya). Hot Rockers, not surprisingly, stuck to the climbing areas. We explored a variety of crags on beautiful limestone cliffs, some with stunning views over the Mediterranean. It was a lovely place to spend a few days and I can recommend it to any European traveller who enjoys the outdoors, and the beach is ideal for their partners who don’t particularly enjoy adrenaline sports.

Danny Mickers enjoys the flames of Chimaera

Another highlight in the area are the eternal flames of Chimaera, where methane gas leaks from the ground near Mt Olympos and ignites spontaneously on contact with the air. In former times, the flames were quite spectacular and ships used them for navigation. Today the atmosphere is one of various campfires which need no tending. Visitors sit and chat among the flames as in any camp environment, some roasting marshmallows or making tea. I can only imagine what this must have been like for people before they understood what fire was.

Turkish climbers in Olympos invited the Hot Rock expedition to attend a real Turkish climbing festival up north near the town of Eskisehir. We were all excited at the chance of meeting more local climbers. Climbing has a bit of a subculture all over the world, with surprising similarities internationally. This was our chance to stretch our cultural boundaries and make some lasting friends.

A party with the locals

The festival is hosted by the Anatolya University Climbing club and is in its second year. It takes place near the small Tatarian village of Karakaya, where granite boulders and spires litter the countryside. It was discovered by climbers accidentally and is now a favoured location. There is no ATM, no medical centre, not really anything at all in the sleepy town. The village didn’t quite know what hit it when nearly 300 people arrived and pitched tents in their neighbouring Robin Hood-like forest. Locals appeared with their children, picnicking amongst the tents and staring in wonder at all the university students wandering around juggling and walking on tight ropes, not to mention climbing their cliffs.

Nathan bouldering behind a spider's web

There are over 70 bolted routes in the vicinity and 28 traditional routes (meaning climbers must use their own protection). Bouldering, where climbers ascend shorter boulders without ropes, is also popular in the area. The location was ideal for the festival in that it is fairly central in Turkey, so participants were able to come from all over the country.

Students spent six months organising the event, designing t-shirts, ordering food, and inviting about 20 other university climbing clubs to attend. Amazingly, the entire thing is free. We were graciously offered a bag full of food even though we crashed the party! Once again, we were humbled by local hospitality and had a fantastic time.

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Cappadocia and the Ala Dag, Turkey

May 7th, 2008 by ontheglobe 1 comment »

This article originally appeared on MSN UK Travel (link)

Fairy Chimneys in Cappadocia

Cappadocia is famous in central Turkey for its “fairy chimneys,” surreal rock spires which poke out of the land like lop-sided wizard hats, in which people have dwelled for thousands of years. Made of soft volcanic rock, the interiors were easily carved into Flinstone-style homes. Between these and several well-preserved underground cities it is easy to imagine ancient life in such an environment.

An ideal town out of which to base oneself for exploring the area is Gorëme, in which normal buildings and the fantastical fairy dwellings merge together. The Gorëme Open Air Museum is one of the most-visited sites in Cappadocia, although there is another high quality site in a nearby valley of Zelve. Both offer dwellings and churches, complete with frescoes, for exploration. There are also about five easy day walks through nearby valleys full of towers and Hobbit-like houses.

I recommend hiring a motorbike or scooter to explore the area independently. A day on a motocross bike costs half as much as a highly touted two hour quad bike excursion, in which a group of tourists follow a trip leader. On your own set of wheels, you can explore little-visited side streets at your own pace and find abandoned dwellings just about everywhere. It really is a thrilling ride.

Motorbike outing in Cappadocia

Derinkuyu is one of three main underground cities, 10km south of Kaymakli. It contains 7 levels and housed about 10,000 people at one point. Underground cities were used by Christians in hiding before the religion was accepted in the area. They are remarkably well planned, complete with ventilation shafts and defense mechanisms. Today, visitors can wander through a fraction of the city. Claustrophobes beware.

Fairy chimneys and underground cities are not all there is to see in Cappadocia, although all too often it is all anyone ever hears about. The Hot Rock expedition spent a week in the little-known national park in the south-eastern portion of the Taurus Mountains, which is also part of Cappadocia. The Ala Daglar National Park is 60km (as the crow flies) from the city of Adana and contains about 750sq km of valleys and sharp peaks reaching 3,700m and above. As such, it is the primary range for alpinism in Turkey. Guidebooks such as the Lonely Planet hardly mention the park, but the walking and climbing potential in the area is immense and sure to please the adventurous traveler. There is, however, a climbing guide: “The Ala Dag: Climbs and Treks in Turkey’s Crimson Mountains” by Ömer Tüzek. It was published in 1993 and is therefore fairly out of date, though it does provide good basic information.

Ala Daglar National Park

We camped near a rock climbing area developed by Recep & Incep of the Ala Ev Climbers House (+90 388 724 7033 www.aladaglarcamping.com) in the Çukurbag Köyü village near the larger town of Çamardi. The villages are a common entry point to the park and provide basic necessities, as well as a generous and hospitable population. The couple has put up over 100 routes in the Kazikly canyon, which is just outside the park and therefore exempt from the park entry fees of 1.75 YTL per day. The area is still new to the climbing community, and the pair request that any visitors in the area respect the environment and keep things as clean as they found them.

Climbing near the Ala Dag park

I spent several days climbing and walking in the park, which was spectacular. Unfortunately, I was only able to scratch the surface, visiting just one of many walkable valleys. Emli Vadi (Valley) contains pine forests which are unique to the park and ends in a large cirque of mountains, with a lovely soft green patch of grass for camping in full view of the peaks. The ideal time for walking is in June, so while it was rather cold, the discomfort was offset by the ultimate privacy of the experience. There were almost no other people in the park.

Cappadocia is an intriguing, mystical place with something for everyone. It does not take much to get off the beaten path, and the resulting experience is hugely rewarding.

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Tags: Ala Daglar Cappadocia climbing Derinkuyu Gorëme

Syria: In and Around Damascus

April 24th, 2008 by ontheglobe No comments »

This Article originally appeared in MSN UK Travel (link), different photos included here.

Market in Damascus

Given political tensions with Syria and much of the west, I was not quite sure what to expect on travelling through the country. The situation increases in sensitivity with the small detail that I am American. The media would have me believe that on such a passport I would be kidnapped or worse. The experience has left me reeling in shock and not for the reasons one would expect.

There are two ends of the spectrum for hosts to tourists – those who want to use and abuse their guests, and those who welcome them with open, and generous, arms. Some countries have more of one than the other, usually landing somewhere in between. Syria is most definitely the latter. Syrians are some of the friendliest, most welcoming people I have ever had the pleasure to meet. No where else in the world have I had strangers buy me a soda or hand over an ice cream cone in a shop for no reason other than that I had walked in. Nothing was expected in return; it was genuine hospitality of a kind you just don’t see anywhere else.

If that is not reason enough to visit, the city of Damascus itself should be a sufficient draw. Host to about 2 million people, it is one of the oldest continually inhabited cities in the world. Written records date back as early as 6000 or 5000 BC. The narrow streets in Old Town wind through markets whispering of another age.

Central square of Old Town, Damascus

It is now considered one of the World Monument Fund’s 100 Most Endangered Sites in the world due to redevelopments coming after much of the town fell into disrepair as people moved to the more modern outskirts of the city. Today, coffee shops abound with men puffing on their Arghilehs (water pipes) while watching people wander by. The apple and vanilla scented smoke floats through town and mixes with smells of lamb and falafel kebabs roasting on street corners. Shopping in the souks in this environment is pleasant and rewarding, if not just for people-watching.

A surprising twist for outdoorsy types is that there is a considerable amount of rock climbing within easy reach of the city. Jürg Neidhardt and Mattias Braun, two European expats now living in Syria, have put up over 140 bolted routes on cliffs high in the Anti-Lebanon Mountains an hour or two out of the city. We could even see snow from the crag, which was so close to the Lebanese border that friction with the Syrian military is actually expected while climbing in the area. We were lucky enough not to run into any issues. The climbing was enjoyable, and given that it is the main focus of the Hot Rock expedition, we stayed on in the area for eight days and explored the city during rest days in between climbs.

Climbing in Syria

For visitors to Syria, there are two must-see destinations within a few hundred kilometers of Damascus. Palmyra, a city of ancient roman ruins that rivals sites in Egypt, and Krak des Chevaliers, a castle that was used for more than a thousand years.

BiRT amidst the ruins of Palmyra

Palmyra is a UNESCO World Heritage site 245km from Damascus. Estimated at 4000 years old and located on an oasis at a strategic junction of trade routes between Rome and Persia, it became an important trading town and as such was given special treatment when the Roman Empire swallowed the area. Today, the site contains hundreds of pillars, an amphitheatre, and various tombs. Various lads on camels are available to show the more weary tourists about. It is surprising there are not more visitors to the area, or more restrictions on where they could go. The site is free of charge, save for one or two buildings, and travellers are allowed to walk wherever they like.

Krak des Chevaliers is far more interesting for those who enjoy games such as hide and seek. Farther afield, near the city of Homs, it was the headquarters of the Knights Hospitaller during the crusades.

Krak des Chevaliers castle

Think Monty Python, complete with dark and dank secret passageways… it really gets the imagination going. The earliest registered record of the castle dates back to 1031 and it was used up until as recently as the late 1800’s. Again there were seemingly no restrictions on where we could go. It would be a great place to visit with children. The surrounding area is surprisingly green, looking more like French or Italian countryside than anything you would imagine in the Middle East.

Between the history and hospitality, Syria is a fantastic place to visit. It is surprising that more tourists do not visit the country. Then again, perhaps that is why it is so special.

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Tags: BiRT climbing Damascus hot rock Krak des Chevaliers msn Palmyra ruins Syria

Doing the Dead Sea, the Wrong Way

April 15th, 2008 by ontheglobe No comments »

This article originally appeared on MSN UK Travel (link)

Floating in the Dead Sea

The Dead Sea, located on the border between Jordan and Israel, is a body of water that used to be connected to the Mediterranean but is now a rapidly shrinking hypersaline lake. It is the world’s largest of its kind at 330m deep, 67km long, and up to 18km wide. It is fed by oasis and the Jordan River, but evaporation and a local phosphorus plant are contributing to a reduction of about 5m per year in depth. It is also at the lowest point on land in the world at 418m below sea level. The salt content is extremely high at about 30%, which is 6-8 times higher than average ocean water. The result: people float like corks. It is very amusing to walk in and let your feet involuntarily float to the surface, completely sticking out of the water.

Getting harassed in the Dead Sea

All along the lake are private beach areas where visitors can pay to enjoy a park-like atmosphere with pools, showers, and eating areas to enjoy along with the lake itself. The budget option is to stop off at a public beach, which also happens to be chock full of hyper-testosterone men and boys. This is one instance where I definitely recommend going with the more expensive option, but only if you have women in your group. The Hot Rock expedition contains five females, two of which are blonde and, dare I say, quite attractive. This caused quite a scene en route to and in the water, even though everyone entered fully clothed. Teenage boys were floating by and playing “touch her bum.” It wasn’t until I went after one and slapped him, to the great amusement of his friends and his utter embarrassment, that they finally relented. Later we had stones thrown at us. To put it mildly, it was not a pleasant experience.

That night in Amman, Jordan’s capital city, we overheard people talking about the Dead Sea marathon being the next day. It seemed like a great idea to run the 10k portion of the race in our full rock climbing getup. This might be because we had just consumed several beers. Whatever the reason, the next day we found ourselves struggling to emerge from bed after one hour of sleep, still feeling the effects of the previous night’s boozing, and donning fancy dress for a healthy morning run. In this fashion, and by fashion I mean haute couture, we descended onto the pavements of Amman and set about our quest to find the marathon. Of course, we had nothing more than the word “Marathon” to go by, but how hard could it be?

Asking the police for directions

Oddly, no one seemed to know where it was and unfortunately none of us speak Arabic to explain our quest. Marathon seemed to be a word that people understood well enough, but our first taxi thought we just wanted to go running and dropped us off at the massive sports complex in the centre of Amman. No tents, no crowds, no marathon – just a track for our bemusement. (My guess is he just wanted us out of the cab as quickly as possible). We inquired for help from some armed guards, policemen, and random volleyball players all of whom held back their laughs as they regarded us with fearful curiosity. Finally, we ended up in another taxi for what we thought would be a 10 minute drive. An hour later, we descended onto the Dead Sea and finally saw some people running.

Hitch hiking in climbing gear

Our eagerness got the best of us and we immediately jumped out of the cab. Unfortunately, this was at kilometer 33. There was no way we were going to be running 33km in the heat with our climbing gear. We jogged along for about 2km and decided to hitchhike to the 10km point in the race. A random truck full of crates picked us up and deposited us at kilometer 9 from which we ran, gear clanging, to the end of the race. No one, absolutely no one, was dressed in fancy dress. Many women were running in full length trousers with long-sleeved tops underneath their race shirts, topped off with a head scarf. Running a marathon seems hard enough, but add to that the heat of the Dead Sea and a winter wardrobe and I am amazed they were able to finish without undergoing heat stroke.

The female champion of the Dead Sea Marathon

The Dead Sea Marathon would be an excellent choice for a first timer. While it is very hot, the run is mostly downhill. The best part, however, is that the end of the marathon is in one of the upscale beach resorts that we had been longing for the previous day. What a magnificent way to end a run! There was a lively party atmosphere with club music and a stage, two pools, and of course the Dead Sea itself. Runners could relax with cold beers and then soak their blistered feet in the healing minerals of the water. There was also quite an interesting mix of people. We met people from all over the world, and were lucky enough to sit at the same table as Nina Kamp of New Jersey who, with a time of 3:34, was the winner of the women’s race. It was certainly a day out to remember.

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Climbing adventures in Wadi Rum, Jordan

April 7th, 2008 by ontheglobe No comments »

The red sands of Wadi Rum

Jordan’s sunny disposition and warmth makes it one of my top recommendations for an alternative break. Easily accessible from Europe, it is surprising there aren’t more visitors to this country. There is something for everyone here – ruins dating back thousands of years, stunning scenery, and numerous activities for the outdoor enthusiast. The famous Bedouin hospitality is as of yet unspoilt; the generosity of local people is astounding even as tourist numbers increase and put a strain on the custom. It is truly a unique location, and now is the perfect time to visit, both in terms of tourism and weather (being spring).

Camils amidst the giant walls of Wadi Rum

I am currently camped in the town of Wadi Rum, which rests quietly within a geological wonder. Sandstone mountains sitting on basalt and granite bedrock rise sharply from a flat sandy valley to heights of 1,700m and above. It is a scale that is difficult to imagine even while standing humbly in their presence. Deep, narrow canyons cleave the hard mountains where wind and water carved passageways over millions of years. Ancient Bedouin paths weave through the canyons and offer walks unmatched in the world. The Jordanian government has recognised this as well, and about 500sq km of the area is now a national park, protected by the Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature (RSCN).

Wadi Rum, Jordan

As little as 35 years ago, this growing village was comprised of a sleepy set of Huweitat Bedouin tents. Today it has paved streets, houses, and 1,500 people who all seem to be related in some way. The modern day Bedouin drives a 4×4 pickup truck with (no joke) his camel in the back and uses a cell phone to chat with family members in camps scattered throughout the desert. Even those who now live in houses are still connected to their nomadic roots. Luckily for them, the national governments have respected this heritage. Locals here can cross the nearby border into Saudi Arabia without passports or visas, and their family on the other side can do the same.

For tourists, Wadi Rum is often an intermediary stop, an afterthought, between the famous Petra to the north and beach resort of Aqaba to the south. Many do not quite know what to expect or what to do here on arriving, looking out the coach windows to see camels in back gardens and friendly taxi drivers and guides reclining lazily in the sun. Inevitably, they realise they did not allot enough time for this gem of a location.

Happy Camel

Activities in the area include jeep rides to remote valleys, camel treks in the desert, canyon walks and scrambles, and horseback rides. Bedouin guides can be hired from the local tourist office or taxi stands – everyone is knowledgeable about the area. I highly recommend hiring a guide for the more adventurous scrambles and walks in the area. This is one of the few places left in the world where locals will surprise you by going above and beyond expectations to ensure you have a pleasant stay in their area. Tea is always on offer, and one friendly taxi driver even invited our group of 15 to his house for dinner. People have welcomed our grimy, dusty group with open arms. It is unfortunate that I cannot do justice to the concept of Bedouin hospitality. It is genuine, honest, and by far the most generous I have ever encountered.

Hot Rock Camp

The Hot Rock group spent 10 days climbing and exploring in Rum. The rock climbing is spectacular, with “short” routes at 4-5 pitches long and the longer climbs upwards of 11 pitches and 700m. Aside from three days of desert bush camping in Barrah Canyon, we pitched our tents at the “Rest House,” a sandy lot on the north end of town complete with restaurant, toilets and showers (tel. +962 032018867). What more could a girl ask for? It is a comfortable camp, the only minor annoyances being tourist busses who park in the neighbouring lot during the day and the occasional loud barking dogs at night. It is in an ideal location for walks and climbs, and also near several shops covering the basics for food. Internet is still not available (for tourists) in Wadi Rum and there are only one or two restaurants, which to me, greatly adds to its appeal.

If you are looking for something different and enjoy the outdoors, I can strongly recommend this area for your next adventure.

This article originally appeared on MSN UK Travel.

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Tags: bedouin bedouin garden village big red truck BiRT camel camping canyon climbing desert hot rock jordan msn wadi rum

Rejoining Hot Rock in Wadi Rum, Jordan

April 6th, 2008 by ontheglobe No comments »

After four months back in the “real” world, I found myself on a snowy Easter Sunday heading to Heathrow again. This time, I moved entirely out of my London flat and all of my stuff is either donated (again) or comfortably nested in two good friends’ storage spaces in London. I will be forever indebted to them. While I do plan on returning to London, things are in limbo regarding timing etc… so best to put everything on hold for a bit.

On my flight from Amman to Aqaba, a girl watched in alarm as I stuffed a ridiculous amount of duty-free loot into the overhead bin and meekly shuffled into my seat. I noticed she had a Mountain Hardware fleece jacket and an outdoorsy-style backpack. We were the only two women on the plane. I knew that another girl was joining Hot Rock in Aqaba, so I decided to take the leap and ask “Are you Hannah?” Her face flashed about five different expressions in the space of two seconds, from “How the heck did you know that?!” to “Whoareyouthisiscreepingmeout!” to to a final understanding of…”ohhhh, must be Hot Rock!” It was hilarious.

Yes, it turned out it was Hannah, joining Hot Rock, and we embarked on a three day wait for the truck. We were so excited for it to arrive that it was all we could talk about. Every time we heard the loud rumble of a diesel truck on the neighbouring road to the hostel, we’d jump up and look to see if it was BiRT, even though we knew there was no way it could have been. We helped pass the time by exploring town a bit and I went on a couple of dives in the Red Sea. Overall, it was a long three days, but BiRT finally did arrive at about 1am on the 27th of March, and we were woken by Hot Rockers banging on our door.

BiRT Arrives

Sunset in Aqaba

From there we travelled to Wadi Rum, a spectacular park in the desert where thousand-metre cliffs tower over a sandy valley. We spent about ten days there, exploring gulleys and canyons and climbing a LOT. After not having climbed for a while, it certainly was a shock to the system (but a good one).

My favourite adventure, however, did not exactly involve climbing per se. It was on our second day, when former Hot Rocker Matt Barratt led us through a very well-hidden route in a canyon. He knew the way, thank goodness, from having gone years earlier with a guide. In fact, looking back I am impressed he remembered as well as he did.

I had no idea what I was getting myself into. We scrambled over some very exposed terrain, swam through a chilly bog, and finished with breathtaking abseils. It was definitely an Indiana Jones type of day, and a great introduction to the area. If you ever find yourself in Wadi Rum and you are OK with heights, find a guide (I can recommend Matt, if you can fly him there!) to take you through Kazali (or Khazali) Canyon. It is hands-down the best day hike I have ever done.

Overall, Wadi Rum was absolutely fantastic – I’ll let the pictures do most of the talking. The below are all credited to Duane Kracke.

Kazali Canyon

Red Dunes in Wadi Rum

On a climb in Wadi Rum

Some exposed technical scrambling, Kazali Canyon

More exposed technical scrambling - Kazali Canyon

Even more exposed technical scrambling - Kazali Canyon

Have I mentioned the exposed technical scrambling? Kazali Canyon

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Diving and Snorkelling in Aqaba, Jordan

March 27th, 2008 by ontheglobe No comments »

Peaceful beach in Aqaba, Jordan

Jordan lies to the south of Syria, sandwiched between Israel to the west and Saudi Arabia to the east. It has a very small coastline on the southern tip, where the town of Aqaba lies cradled at the northern end of the Red Sea. From its beaches, the observer can see three other countries: Egypt across the water, Israel to the right (west), and Saudi Arabia to the left (east). Strange to think that in 1967 these waters teemed with military craft in a war with Israel (in which Jordan, Syria, Egypt, and Iraq fought against Israel). Since this time, however, both Egypt and Jordan have opened up their borders with the latter and enjoy a fairly peaceful relationship with their neighbour.

How did I get here… I found myself in the snow without a coat on Easter Sunday in London, heading towards Heathrow to board a plane to Amman and then Aqaba, on this southern Jordanian coastline. I had an 8-hour overnight layover in the capitol, Amman which became a mini-adventure. An Iraqi sitting next to me on the plane insisted that the Intercontinental hotel lobby would be more comfortable than an airport transit lounge in which to spend the night. It was. Definitely one of those risky stories I don’t like to tell my parents, though…

The Intercontinental Hotel in Amman

First observations of Jordan: everybody smokes like a chimney, it is dry and hot, and the people are quite friendly. Travelling as a woman here is not so bad – I was expecting much more hassling from men. While there are certainly stares and comments to be had, I would put the badgering on par with or even less than the south of France, Italy, and Spain.

Touristy is not a word that comes to mind in Aqaba. Here you see locals living their daily lives and the occasional traveller who clearly enjoys getting off the beaten path, wandering in and among brightly lit shops in the evening. It is definitely a town with tourist potential, but it seems to be overshadowed by their glitzy Israeli neighbour, Eilat. From the serene waterfront, where couples stroll silently in the evening, you can see hotels seemingly stacked one upon the other and looming over the far-side beach. I tend to prefer the quiet realism and organised chaos of places like Aqaba, so I think I made the right choice, although given a bit of extra time I think it would have been worth crossing the border just to check it out.

Evening street scene in Aqaba

Activities in Aqaba revolve mainly around the water, with diving and snorkeling being the main draw. There are 22 dive sites in the area and most are accessible from the beach. I took a pair of dives with Arab Divers, walking in from the beach and swimming to a gigantic wreck off shore, where a Lebanese ship called “Cedar Pride” was scuttled for divers by King Abdullah 23 years ago. Our next dive was in the “Japanese Gardens,” full of fish and coral as any good diving spot would be – I’d say it was on the plus side of average. I’m sure there are better locations, but it certainly was not bad.

Me and my dive buddies/guides from Arab Divers

Overall, I wouldn’t say Arab Divers are the most professional outfit, but it was a good day out nonetheless. If you are new to diving, I would suggest doing some research on the other 10-15 dive operators, but experienced divers would have no problem with Arab divers.

Doing anything during the heat of the day other than diving or snorkeling is not ideal, even in March at a “comfortable” 30-35 degrees. The town livens up considerably in the evening when things cool off – the kebab stalls fire up and you can find a good cold beer at restaurants such as Ali Baba.

Bedouin Garden Village, Aqaba

I stayed at a budget guesthouse called Bedouin Garden Village in a double ensuite room for about 10 GBP per night. There are also communal tents and camping spots available. The site boasts a small pool and lounging areas, and is situated across the street from a prime snorkeling location, “Japanese Gardens,” (the same as mentioned earlier). Drawbacks included: at 12km it is far from town and requires a taxi or hitching to get into Aqaba proper, the food left something to be desired, and the toilets smelled of urine. Overall, however, it was satisfactory and cheap. Has potential to be much more than it is, though.

At just over a four hour flight away, Jordan is far more accessible as a UK city break than most would think, and it takes you worlds away. As a budget option, it isn’t a bad way to go.

This article originally appeared in MSN UK Travel

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Posted in Middle East

Tags: aqaba arab divers beach bedouin garden village diving jordan scuba

Houdini Holidays and Closing the Angel Chapter

February 25th, 2008 by ontheglobe No comments »

After waving goodbye to BiRT I returned to my Tanzanian ”banda” to lie and listen to the waves of the Indian Ocean, contemplating life. Then I wandered the streets of Dar Es Salaam alone for a couple of days and finally boarded a flight back to London. Stepping off the plane, grabbing my dusty bags, and joining the fast-walking crowd to the Tube was both a shock and oddly familiar. How can it be that both of those emotions can coexist?

I had three days in London before going home for the holidays. These were filled with friends and ice skating and emptying bags in order to fill them again with very different items. Out went the shorts and summer wear, in went the fleece tops and wool socks. Out went the climbing harness and shoes, in went the ski bottoms and boots. I shared my room with Caroline, a Swiss architecture student and intern who was subletting my room while I was out, and who I dare say was quite patient as I single-handedly made it look like a bomb had exploded in her/my/our room.

Roz and Caroline Skating at the Natural History Museum

Oxford Circus decked out for the Holidays (Check out all those shoppers!)

The Great Escape

On the day of my flight out, I had a chance to put my climbing skills to use. Having only one set of keys for both Caroline and I to share, she had taken them with her to work (as obviously I would not need them). I could leave and close the door, which automatically locks, and be gone. What no one had considered was the second lock… the bolt lock. In our house, one must unlock the bolt lock (if locked) with a key, from the inside. It’s the only way. God forbid there is a fire and you lost your keys. Or that your flatmates all leave before you and lock the bolt lock, thereby trapping you inside with all your luggage and no way out, when you are already late for a flight, all because you were too dim-witted to leave a note reminding people not to lock you in.

Must. Not. Panic.

OK… time to think of a creative solution. I had often wondered if I could exit the house via our front living room window. This is effectively a floor above ground, or about 10 metres high, as there is a deep pit in front of the house, between the sidewalk and the house itself. In earlier days, these pits were used for dumping coal to be used in the kitchen, which is also on the lower (basement) level of the house. Today it just lets light in the kitchen… aaand makes it tough to leave via the front window.

The other challenge is the fact that the front window sticks. Badly. I could only open it about 12-16 inches high. This was barely enough for me to shove my bags through and toss them on the roof of a small extension to the kitchen below, near the sidewalk. Then I had to pull a Houdini and squeeze myself out, which would have been difficult enough without the 10 metre drop on the other side.

Squeezing through the gap (this is a reenactment)

Kneeling on the ledge

Finally out on the ledge, standing with my back to the wall, arms out as though I was going suicidal or something, I heaved a sigh of relief and slowly turned around to close the window. It wouldn’t budge. There was nothing I could get a grip on to push it down. s@*t!

Stuck window (this is a reenactment)

After squeezing myself back in through the tiny gap, clock ticking, I opened and closed the window as far as I could several times hoping to loosen it up, and exited again. Window stuck again. Repeat. Three times.

Finally, at my wit’s end and standing outside on this tiny window ledge, I suddenly remembered that the top half of the window also moves. But surely it would also be stuck? Or locked? I was in luck, it moved! Quite easily! I managed to pull it down to the point where I could then get a good enough grip on the lower window and push down with all my might. All I needed now was to slam it down and have glass shatter all over me, but luckily that did not happen. It behaved. There was one point where if it had stuck, I would not have been able to go back inside, but eventually the gap completely closed. I turned around gingerly and did a gut-wrenching leap over my luggage to the far end of the little roof, next to the sidewalk. Success!

On the sill, pretty high up (this is a reenactment)

Jump path. ;) (this is a reenactment - there were a lot more bags in the way!)

I then bowed to my audience of workers and pedestrians across the street, dusted myself off, and walked away with large bags. Not suspicious AT ALL. Thank God no one called the police, or I would have had some interesting explaining to do, and definitely would have missed my flight.

I then called all flatmates and left urgent messages (no one had been answering the phone since I had first discovered my entrapment) that the front window was unlocked, and publicly so. Could someone could PLEASE go back to the house and lock everything up before an anorexic kelpto acrobat stole the flat screen TV, thank you very much and now to get on with my flight…

Holidays and back

I was lucky enough to spend a full month at home for the holidays. After roughing it for months, it was nice to have some of Mom’s cooking, plus a whole room not to mention bed (!!!), to myself for a couple of weeks. Needless to say, the holidays were wonderful, although it was a bit tough to get used to cold weather and the abundance of… everything. I nearly passed out on entering an Albertson’s (a supermarket) near my parents’ house. Couldn’t even see to the other end of the building! Avocados looked like footballs! People were walking around with carts that resembled small vehicles. What is going on here?

A cozy night of Bluegrass with Dad

When my parents took off for their own adventures in Argentina (it runs in the blood), I made my way to the city of Seattle to hang out with friends, drink wine, and do some couch surfing. I also got back to work. Sigh. Actually, it felt good to get back to it on some levels. I won’t lie, though, and say my mind didn’t wander frequently back to Africa.

Seattle

The Puget Sound

Now I’m in London and nearing the end of my contract, again. Déjà vu. Packing up and getting ready to meet BiRT for the second time, only this time I know exactly what to expect. Well, sort of. I’ll join the truck in Jordan just after Easter, and we’ll be going north for three months through Syria to Turkey. Looking forward to it.

Somehow, though, I’m admittedly a bittersweet this time around. Something is different… I am closing the “Angel Chapter” and that commands some time for reflection. I’ve got that nostalgic twinge making me hesitant to turn the page, looking back, thinking over the memories of the past year and a half. I’ve had a fantastic time, and just as I am feeling at home here in London, I find myself packing up and putting things in storage again. I will be back, but I don’t know when, and things are going to be different next time. That’s not a bad thing, just different. ;)

When everything is up in the air – it’s exciting and wonderful and… friggin’ scary as all hell! Here we go again – wheeeee! What’s next in this choose-your-own-adventure?

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Posted in Africa, Europe, North America

Tags: angel BiRT dar es salaam escape holidays hot rock ice skating locked out london natural history museum oxford circus puget sound seattle tanzania window

Zanzibar

December 9th, 2007 by ontheglobe No comments »

On arriving, the magic of Zanzibar washed over me like the waves which had brought me there. Residents of Stone Town float along ancient back alleyways, markets teem with leisurely activity, and couples stroll through the shade in a waterfront park.

Stone Town, Zanzibar

A woman walks in magical Stone Town, Zanzibar

A man on a bicycle in Stone Town, Zanzibar

This same park later becomes a haven for seafood as a night market spontaneously springs up out of nowhere just before sunset. Stalls are haphazardly put together, fires roared up, skillets oiled, and kebabs put together. I spent no less than three hours eating continuously in this market, two nights in a row! I thought I was going to explode, but there were too many delicious tidbits to try, including a ginger tea stand with a group of adorable old men gossiping in a circle. I dare say I can recommend Zanzibar just for this street-food market alone. But there is so much more… Zanzibar is a photographer’s dream – at every turn, there is something interesting.

Evening food market, Stone Town, Zanzibar

Seafood... mmm!

The white sand beaches we found on the island are among the best I have had the pleasure of curling my toes in to date, rivaling the Whitsunday islands in Australia and beaches in southern Thailand. I only experienced a beach in the northwest, on and near Kendwa, but as far as I know they are good pretty much all the way around. Life is even slower on the beaches, which had seemed impossible.

Stone Town's Beach

Usually, I am not really a beach person unless there are things to keep me occupied. There actually is some fantastic diving in the area, but the lazy pace had crept into my bones and I just couldn’t be bothered doing anything more active than beach volleyball. For the first time, I truly became a beach bum (and even then, I only laid in the sun for a total of… oh, 20 or 30 minutes). Mostly, I ate and drank all-inclusive food and beverages while sitting under beach umbrellas at the five-star resort, La Gemma dell’ Est, and swimming in its ridiculously oversized salt-water pool. Quite a sprawling establishment, it seemed like a veritable palace after being in a tent for two and a half months.

La Gemma Dell' Est Pool, Zanzibar

My stay at the hotel started off in a typical enough fashion. A friend and I decided to leave the group in Kendwa and wander to the whiter beaches to the north. We walked along the beach in the heat of the day for over an hour, arriving at the front doorstep of an all-inclusive 5-star resort in a sticky, sweaty, and sandy mess. We had not washed our clothes in several weeks and our backpacks were covered in a layer of dirt. Sauntering up to the check-in counter of La Gemma Dell’ Est in our dirty Tevas, we casually inquired whether we could get a room. The hotel staff, without answering yes or no, raised an eyebrow and said “perhaps you would like to see the price list?” and slid a brochure across the counter. We looked at it pensively for a few minutes and asked for a deluxe suite. Eyes wide, she politely complied. She couldn’t believe we were for real, and I couldn’t believe I was going to sleep on a soft mattress and have a real, ensuite bathroom for a night or two. Amazing!

La Gemma dell’ Est is the largest resort in Zanzibar, with 138 rooms and a few separated villas (the largest being the “presidential villa” which has its own pool). It covers a HUGE area; there are actually little golf carts to ferry people around “should you get tired and not wish to walk.” There was a hookah bar and small restaurant situated on a pontile out in the ocean, a romantic spot to watch the sun set. It is clearly very popular with the honeymoon crowd. The best part for us was, as mentioned earlier, that all food and drink was included. Thus, after months on a 50p/day food budget, you can imagine how we ate and drank ourselves into a stupor! For us, after roughing it for so long, it was comparatively, oh, fabulous and a great way for me to end the trip.

Our exit from the hotel was nearly as entertaining as the entrance. Slightly cleaner, we missed our golf-cart transport to the front desk and hiked what seemed like miles back to the front desk. Here, we took turns to visit the restaurant in order to stuff rolls and Danishes into a paper bag for the road (yes, classy) as we waited for our “car,” which ended up being what resembled a clown truck. It was a local taxi with bright colours and Hot Rockers hanging out the windows, laughing and waving as it teetered around the corner and skidded to a stop. I half expected everyone to jump out and throw pies at each other. The bemused hotel staff politely waved as we jumped on board and rolled off.

A few more pics of Stone Town… where we stopped again briefly before ferrying back to Dar es Salaam.

Colors in Stone Town, Zanzibar

Fisherman

And then, it was time to say good-bye to Hot Rock. Back at our camp in Dar Es Salaam, the Big Red Truck (BiRT) rolled away and I stayed behind. A bittersweet end – it was a great trip. So good, in fact, that I made plans to return again at the end of March. Until then, Hot Rock!

Full slideshow here.

This article originally appeared in MSN UK Travel.

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Posted in Africa

Tags: all-inclusive beach big red truck BiRT food hot rock hotel la gemma del est market resort seafood stone town truck zanzibar

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