Posts Tagged ‘climbing’

Kalymnos, Greece

May 27th, 2008

This article originally appeared on MSN UK Travel (link).

Masouri Village, Kalymnos

Most people are familiar with ski villages catering to tourists who ski or board in the winter and walk or mountain bike in the summer. Whistler and Chamonix are prime examples of this highly successful development. As global warming unfortunately piques the nerves of their residents, a new adventure town is on the rise with a rosy future catering to a growing sport. Imagine a community focused almost exclusively on rock climbers, who flock to it from all over the world for their adventure holiday. Masouri village, on the island of Kalymnos in Greece, is of this new variety.

Woman climbing in Kalymnos

Kalymnos is located in southeastern Greece in the Dodecanese Islands. There is evidence of habitation on the island from as far back as 4000 B.C. and there are numerous historical sites and digs taking place. It is actually a fairly recent addition to Greece, having only been included after World War II in 1948 (it was occupied by the Italians and then Germans prior to that). Today one can meander through the narrow cobbled streets and beautiful harbour in the capitol of Pothia, or walk through rugged mountainous terrain to small villages and sleepy coastal towns. The town of Masouri, with a population of 17,000, sees the most tourists. Most of them are climbers who arrive by the thousands each year. The mode du jour is to rent a studio flat, hire a scooter, and ride to a different crag each day. Never have I seen so many fit tourists in one place! Two other towns popular with climbers are Armeos and Myrties nearby.

Pothia

Formerly, Masouri was a sea sponge town with legendary local divers able to hold their breath for 5 minutes. The economy eventually fell into decline after a diseased sponge crop in the mid ‘80s and the introduction of synthetics. This could have spelled the end for many small towns in the area, but it was around this time that an Italian climber named Andrea di Bari discovered the area on accident during a family holiday. Noticing the hundreds of cliffs overlooking the Aegean Sea, he became inspired and decided to introduce the area to climbers worldwide. Since 1999 more than 900 routes have opened up in more than 43 crags all over the island, with more being created on an ongoing basis. This has effectively rescued the community from its impending economic downfall and residents have embraced the sport and its lifestyle. The town really is on the rise; buildings are under construction everywhere and the crags see an enormous amount of activity – it will be interesting to visit in a few years and see how much it has grown.

Climbing in Kalymnos, island of Telendos in the background

One of the best things about the place, which sets it apart from other popular climbing destinations such as Thailand, is the variety in climbs and difficulties available. Given the sheer number of cliffs and routes on hand, there is a route here to please everyone. Climbers of all ages and varieties are to be seen. A guidebook to the area was put together by Aris Theodoropoulos who teamed up with di Bari and the Greek Alpine Club of Acharnes to publish this well written “Bible of Routes.” It is on sale in town for a whopping 35 Euros, but everyone dutifully purchases a copy.

Climbing is not the only activity available on the island, however. There is much to amuse their non-climbing friends and partners or the climber on his or her rest day. One obvious option is to go diving. Visibility is exceptional and divers can explore underwater wrecks and see the local sponge varieties. Kalymnos even has a decompression chamber in the local hospital which is rare for such a sparsely populated place. Windsurfing, jetskiing, walking, caving, and kayaking are attractive options as well. For the more sedentary folk, there are also atmospheric cafes and restaurants peppering the entire island with excellent Greek cuisine.

If you would like to know more about Kalymnos, some useful websites are the official island site: www.kalymnos-isl.gr and the climbing sites: www.kalymnos-isl.gr or www.oreivatein.com. On the island itself, there is a climbing information desk that never appears to be open and a social atmosphere where people share information quite willingly.

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Tags: climbing greece kalymnos

Olympos and a Climbing Festival in Turkey

May 20th, 2008

This article originally appeared in MSN UK Travel (link).

Ruins of Roman baths in Olympos

The ancient ruins of Olympos lie on the southern coast of Turkey in the shadow of a mountain of the same name. Quietly nestled in a gorge with a stream running to the Mediterranean Sea not far off, it is easy to imagine why the location was selected as a desirable place to build a community. What is not understandable is why anyone left. It is estimated the city was abandoned by the 15th century.

Olympos was founded in the Hellenistic period and today it lies in (imagine this) ruins. It is delightful to walk through the overgrown park and feel as though discovering the mysterious site for the first time. Most “ruins” these days seem to be so artificially preserved that some of the magic of their age disappears. This was not the case at Olympos. Trees grow out of tumbling walls and columns pepper the ground, half buried and looking like logs in a river. It truly is a case where one can accidentally and quite literally stumble upon a ruin.

The area is still not well known with tourists but is definitely growing in popularity. What was once a series of fruit orchards 3 km north of the village of Çirali have now been converted into guesthouses and “tree houses” (which are in effect elevated shacks pretending to lean against a tree). People from all over Europe and most of Turkey flock here to party and relax on the nearby beach. It certainly is strange to hear the thumping of club music just yards from such a peaceful ancient place.

The beach at Olympos, with the "gorge" toward the back right

The gorge near Olympos also provides a slew of outdoor activities. Trekking, climbing, kayaking, swimming, and rafting are all on the list of options. It is also a popular stopping point for trekkers on the famed Lycian Way (a 500km trail from Fethiye to Antalya). Hot Rockers, not surprisingly, stuck to the climbing areas. We explored a variety of crags on beautiful limestone cliffs, some with stunning views over the Mediterranean. It was a lovely place to spend a few days and I can recommend it to any European traveller who enjoys the outdoors, and the beach is ideal for their partners who don’t particularly enjoy adrenaline sports.

Danny Mickers enjoys the flames of Chimaera

Another highlight in the area are the eternal flames of Chimaera, where methane gas leaks from the ground near Mt Olympos and ignites spontaneously on contact with the air. In former times, the flames were quite spectacular and ships used them for navigation. Today the atmosphere is one of various campfires which need no tending. Visitors sit and chat among the flames as in any camp environment, some roasting marshmallows or making tea. I can only imagine what this must have been like for people before they understood what fire was.

Turkish climbers in Olympos invited the Hot Rock expedition to attend a real Turkish climbing festival up north near the town of Eskisehir. We were all excited at the chance of meeting more local climbers. Climbing has a bit of a subculture all over the world, with surprising similarities internationally. This was our chance to stretch our cultural boundaries and make some lasting friends.

A party with the locals

The festival is hosted by the Anatolya University Climbing club and is in its second year. It takes place near the small Tatarian village of Karakaya, where granite boulders and spires litter the countryside. It was discovered by climbers accidentally and is now a favoured location. There is no ATM, no medical centre, not really anything at all in the sleepy town. The village didn’t quite know what hit it when nearly 300 people arrived and pitched tents in their neighbouring Robin Hood-like forest. Locals appeared with their children, picnicking amongst the tents and staring in wonder at all the university students wandering around juggling and walking on tight ropes, not to mention climbing their cliffs.

Nathan bouldering behind a spider's web

There are over 70 bolted routes in the vicinity and 28 traditional routes (meaning climbers must use their own protection). Bouldering, where climbers ascend shorter boulders without ropes, is also popular in the area. The location was ideal for the festival in that it is fairly central in Turkey, so participants were able to come from all over the country.

Students spent six months organising the event, designing t-shirts, ordering food, and inviting about 20 other university climbing clubs to attend. Amazingly, the entire thing is free. We were graciously offered a bag full of food even though we crashed the party! Once again, we were humbled by local hospitality and had a fantastic time.

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Tags: chimaera climbing Eskisehir hot rock olympos ruins Turkey

Cappadocia and the Ala Dag, Turkey

May 7th, 2008

This article originally appeared on MSN UK Travel (link)

Fairy Chimneys in Cappadocia

Cappadocia is famous in central Turkey for its “fairy chimneys,” surreal rock spires which poke out of the land like lop-sided wizard hats, in which people have dwelled for thousands of years. Made of soft volcanic rock, the interiors were easily carved into Flinstone-style homes. Between these and several well-preserved underground cities it is easy to imagine ancient life in such an environment.

An ideal town out of which to base oneself for exploring the area is Gorëme, in which normal buildings and the fantastical fairy dwellings merge together. The Gorëme Open Air Museum is one of the most-visited sites in Cappadocia, although there is another high quality site in a nearby valley of Zelve. Both offer dwellings and churches, complete with frescoes, for exploration. There are also about five easy day walks through nearby valleys full of towers and Hobbit-like houses.

I recommend hiring a motorbike or scooter to explore the area independently. A day on a motocross bike costs half as much as a highly touted two hour quad bike excursion, in which a group of tourists follow a trip leader. On your own set of wheels, you can explore little-visited side streets at your own pace and find abandoned dwellings just about everywhere. It really is a thrilling ride.

Motorbike outing in Cappadocia

Derinkuyu is one of three main underground cities, 10km south of Kaymakli. It contains 7 levels and housed about 10,000 people at one point. Underground cities were used by Christians in hiding before the religion was accepted in the area. They are remarkably well planned, complete with ventilation shafts and defense mechanisms. Today, visitors can wander through a fraction of the city. Claustrophobes beware.

Fairy chimneys and underground cities are not all there is to see in Cappadocia, although all too often it is all anyone ever hears about. The Hot Rock expedition spent a week in the little-known national park in the south-eastern portion of the Taurus Mountains, which is also part of Cappadocia. The Ala Daglar National Park is 60km (as the crow flies) from the city of Adana and contains about 750sq km of valleys and sharp peaks reaching 3,700m and above. As such, it is the primary range for alpinism in Turkey. Guidebooks such as the Lonely Planet hardly mention the park, but the walking and climbing potential in the area is immense and sure to please the adventurous traveler. There is, however, a climbing guide: “The Ala Dag: Climbs and Treks in Turkey’s Crimson Mountains” by Ömer Tüzek. It was published in 1993 and is therefore fairly out of date, though it does provide good basic information.

Ala Daglar National Park

We camped near a rock climbing area developed by Recep & Incep of the Ala Ev Climbers House (+90 388 724 7033 www.aladaglarcamping.com) in the Çukurbag Köyü village near the larger town of Çamardi. The villages are a common entry point to the park and provide basic necessities, as well as a generous and hospitable population. The couple has put up over 100 routes in the Kazikly canyon, which is just outside the park and therefore exempt from the park entry fees of 1.75 YTL per day. The area is still new to the climbing community, and the pair request that any visitors in the area respect the environment and keep things as clean as they found them.

Climbing near the Ala Dag park

I spent several days climbing and walking in the park, which was spectacular. Unfortunately, I was only able to scratch the surface, visiting just one of many walkable valleys. Emli Vadi (Valley) contains pine forests which are unique to the park and ends in a large cirque of mountains, with a lovely soft green patch of grass for camping in full view of the peaks. The ideal time for walking is in June, so while it was rather cold, the discomfort was offset by the ultimate privacy of the experience. There were almost no other people in the park.

Cappadocia is an intriguing, mystical place with something for everyone. It does not take much to get off the beaten path, and the resulting experience is hugely rewarding.

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Tags: Ala Daglar Cappadocia climbing Derinkuyu Gorëme

Syria: In and Around Damascus

April 24th, 2008

This Article originally appeared in MSN UK Travel (link), different photos included here.

Market in Damascus

Given political tensions with Syria and much of the west, I was not quite sure what to expect on travelling through the country. The situation increases in sensitivity with the small detail that I am American. The media would have me believe that on such a passport I would be kidnapped or worse. The experience has left me reeling in shock and not for the reasons one would expect.

There are two ends of the spectrum for hosts to tourists – those who want to use and abuse their guests, and those who welcome them with open, and generous, arms. Some countries have more of one than the other, usually landing somewhere in between. Syria is most definitely the latter. Syrians are some of the friendliest, most welcoming people I have ever had the pleasure to meet. No where else in the world have I had strangers buy me a soda or hand over an ice cream cone in a shop for no reason other than that I had walked in. Nothing was expected in return; it was genuine hospitality of a kind you just don’t see anywhere else.

If that is not reason enough to visit, the city of Damascus itself should be a sufficient draw. Host to about 2 million people, it is one of the oldest continually inhabited cities in the world. Written records date back as early as 6000 or 5000 BC. The narrow streets in Old Town wind through markets whispering of another age.

Central square of Old Town, Damascus

It is now considered one of the World Monument Fund’s 100 Most Endangered Sites in the world due to redevelopments coming after much of the town fell into disrepair as people moved to the more modern outskirts of the city. Today, coffee shops abound with men puffing on their Arghilehs (water pipes) while watching people wander by. The apple and vanilla scented smoke floats through town and mixes with smells of lamb and falafel kebabs roasting on street corners. Shopping in the souks in this environment is pleasant and rewarding, if not just for people-watching.

A surprising twist for outdoorsy types is that there is a considerable amount of rock climbing within easy reach of the city. Jürg Neidhardt and Mattias Braun, two European expats now living in Syria, have put up over 140 bolted routes on cliffs high in the Anti-Lebanon Mountains an hour or two out of the city. We could even see snow from the crag, which was so close to the Lebanese border that friction with the Syrian military is actually expected while climbing in the area. We were lucky enough not to run into any issues. The climbing was enjoyable, and given that it is the main focus of the Hot Rock expedition, we stayed on in the area for eight days and explored the city during rest days in between climbs.

Climbing in Syria

For visitors to Syria, there are two must-see destinations within a few hundred kilometers of Damascus. Palmyra, a city of ancient roman ruins that rivals sites in Egypt, and Krak des Chevaliers, a castle that was used for more than a thousand years.

BiRT amidst the ruins of Palmyra

Palmyra is a UNESCO World Heritage site 245km from Damascus. Estimated at 4000 years old and located on an oasis at a strategic junction of trade routes between Rome and Persia, it became an important trading town and as such was given special treatment when the Roman Empire swallowed the area. Today, the site contains hundreds of pillars, an amphitheatre, and various tombs. Various lads on camels are available to show the more weary tourists about. It is surprising there are not more visitors to the area, or more restrictions on where they could go. The site is free of charge, save for one or two buildings, and travellers are allowed to walk wherever they like.

Krak des Chevaliers is far more interesting for those who enjoy games such as hide and seek. Farther afield, near the city of Homs, it was the headquarters of the Knights Hospitaller during the crusades.

Krak des Chevaliers castle

Think Monty Python, complete with dark and dank secret passageways… it really gets the imagination going. The earliest registered record of the castle dates back to 1031 and it was used up until as recently as the late 1800’s. Again there were seemingly no restrictions on where we could go. It would be a great place to visit with children. The surrounding area is surprisingly green, looking more like French or Italian countryside than anything you would imagine in the Middle East.

Between the history and hospitality, Syria is a fantastic place to visit. It is surprising that more tourists do not visit the country. Then again, perhaps that is why it is so special.

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Tags: BiRT climbing Damascus hot rock Krak des Chevaliers msn Palmyra ruins Syria

Climbing adventures in Wadi Rum, Jordan

April 7th, 2008

The red sands of Wadi Rum

Jordan’s sunny disposition and warmth makes it one of my top recommendations for an alternative break. Easily accessible from Europe, it is surprising there aren’t more visitors to this country. There is something for everyone here – ruins dating back thousands of years, stunning scenery, and numerous activities for the outdoor enthusiast. The famous Bedouin hospitality is as of yet unspoilt; the generosity of local people is astounding even as tourist numbers increase and put a strain on the custom. It is truly a unique location, and now is the perfect time to visit, both in terms of tourism and weather (being spring).

Camils amidst the giant walls of Wadi Rum

I am currently camped in the town of Wadi Rum, which rests quietly within a geological wonder. Sandstone mountains sitting on basalt and granite bedrock rise sharply from a flat sandy valley to heights of 1,700m and above. It is a scale that is difficult to imagine even while standing humbly in their presence. Deep, narrow canyons cleave the hard mountains where wind and water carved passageways over millions of years. Ancient Bedouin paths weave through the canyons and offer walks unmatched in the world. The Jordanian government has recognised this as well, and about 500sq km of the area is now a national park, protected by the Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature (RSCN).

Wadi Rum, Jordan

As little as 35 years ago, this growing village was comprised of a sleepy set of Huweitat Bedouin tents. Today it has paved streets, houses, and 1,500 people who all seem to be related in some way. The modern day Bedouin drives a 4×4 pickup truck with (no joke) his camel in the back and uses a cell phone to chat with family members in camps scattered throughout the desert. Even those who now live in houses are still connected to their nomadic roots. Luckily for them, the national governments have respected this heritage. Locals here can cross the nearby border into Saudi Arabia without passports or visas, and their family on the other side can do the same.

For tourists, Wadi Rum is often an intermediary stop, an afterthought, between the famous Petra to the north and beach resort of Aqaba to the south. Many do not quite know what to expect or what to do here on arriving, looking out the coach windows to see camels in back gardens and friendly taxi drivers and guides reclining lazily in the sun. Inevitably, they realise they did not allot enough time for this gem of a location.

Happy Camel

Activities in the area include jeep rides to remote valleys, camel treks in the desert, canyon walks and scrambles, and horseback rides. Bedouin guides can be hired from the local tourist office or taxi stands – everyone is knowledgeable about the area. I highly recommend hiring a guide for the more adventurous scrambles and walks in the area. This is one of the few places left in the world where locals will surprise you by going above and beyond expectations to ensure you have a pleasant stay in their area. Tea is always on offer, and one friendly taxi driver even invited our group of 15 to his house for dinner. People have welcomed our grimy, dusty group with open arms. It is unfortunate that I cannot do justice to the concept of Bedouin hospitality. It is genuine, honest, and by far the most generous I have ever encountered.

Hot Rock Camp

The Hot Rock group spent 10 days climbing and exploring in Rum. The rock climbing is spectacular, with “short” routes at 4-5 pitches long and the longer climbs upwards of 11 pitches and 700m. Aside from three days of desert bush camping in Barrah Canyon, we pitched our tents at the “Rest House,” a sandy lot on the north end of town complete with restaurant, toilets and showers (tel. +962 032018867). What more could a girl ask for? It is a comfortable camp, the only minor annoyances being tourist busses who park in the neighbouring lot during the day and the occasional loud barking dogs at night. It is in an ideal location for walks and climbs, and also near several shops covering the basics for food. Internet is still not available (for tourists) in Wadi Rum and there are only one or two restaurants, which to me, greatly adds to its appeal.

If you are looking for something different and enjoy the outdoors, I can strongly recommend this area for your next adventure.

This article originally appeared on MSN UK Travel.

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Posted in Middle East

Tags: bedouin bedouin garden village big red truck BiRT camel camping canyon climbing desert hot rock jordan msn wadi rum

Rejoining Hot Rock in Wadi Rum, Jordan

April 6th, 2008

After four months back in the “real” world, I found myself on a snowy Easter Sunday heading to Heathrow again. This time, I moved entirely out of my London flat and all of my stuff is either donated (again) or comfortably nested in two good friends’ storage spaces in London. I will be forever indebted to them. While I do plan on returning to London, things are in limbo regarding timing etc… so best to put everything on hold for a bit.

On my flight from Amman to Aqaba, a girl watched in alarm as I stuffed a ridiculous amount of duty-free loot into the overhead bin and meekly shuffled into my seat. I noticed she had a Mountain Hardware fleece jacket and an outdoorsy-style backpack. We were the only two women on the plane. I knew that another girl was joining Hot Rock in Aqaba, so I decided to take the leap and ask “Are you Hannah?” Her face flashed about five different expressions in the space of two seconds, from “How the heck did you know that?!” to “Whoareyouthisiscreepingmeout!” to to a final understanding of…”ohhhh, must be Hot Rock!” It was hilarious.

Yes, it turned out it was Hannah, joining Hot Rock, and we embarked on a three day wait for the truck. We were so excited for it to arrive that it was all we could talk about. Every time we heard the loud rumble of a diesel truck on the neighbouring road to the hostel, we’d jump up and look to see if it was BiRT, even though we knew there was no way it could have been. We helped pass the time by exploring town a bit and I went on a couple of dives in the Red Sea. Overall, it was a long three days, but BiRT finally did arrive at about 1am on the 27th of March, and we were woken by Hot Rockers banging on our door.

BiRT Arrives

Sunset in Aqaba

From there we travelled to Wadi Rum, a spectacular park in the desert where thousand-metre cliffs tower over a sandy valley. We spent about ten days there, exploring gulleys and canyons and climbing a LOT. After not having climbed for a while, it certainly was a shock to the system (but a good one).

My favourite adventure, however, did not exactly involve climbing per se. It was on our second day, when former Hot Rocker Matt Barratt led us through a very well-hidden route in a canyon. He knew the way, thank goodness, from having gone years earlier with a guide. In fact, looking back I am impressed he remembered as well as he did.

I had no idea what I was getting myself into. We scrambled over some very exposed terrain, swam through a chilly bog, and finished with breathtaking abseils. It was definitely an Indiana Jones type of day, and a great introduction to the area. If you ever find yourself in Wadi Rum and you are OK with heights, find a guide (I can recommend Matt, if you can fly him there!) to take you through Kazali (or Khazali) Canyon. It is hands-down the best day hike I have ever done.

Overall, Wadi Rum was absolutely fantastic – I’ll let the pictures do most of the talking. The below are all credited to Duane Kracke.

Kazali Canyon

Red Dunes in Wadi Rum

On a climb in Wadi Rum

Some exposed technical scrambling, Kazali Canyon

More exposed technical scrambling - Kazali Canyon

Even more exposed technical scrambling - Kazali Canyon

Have I mentioned the exposed technical scrambling? Kazali Canyon

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Tags: amman BiRT climbing hot rock jordan kazali canyon khazali canyon wadi rum

Climbing at Shamu and Dema, Zimbabwe

November 13th, 2007

Zimbabwe has many quality climbing destinations, but the highlights during our crossing had to be the rock outcroppings of Shamu and Dema, both in the middle of nowhere. They offered stupendous climbing and an intimate view into Zimbabwean country life.

At Shamu, we camped in an elder’s farm, pitching our tents on bumpy, fallow ground near a large tree. The farmer is 80 years old, his wife 24. Between her and his other wife he has 16 children. The family was very friendly and hospitable, even offering us a bucket with which to wash. (Now that I think about it, this may have been more for their benefit than ours). We spent a few days exploring the area; I found it quite relaxing after all the adventurous bushwhacking we had been doing up to that point, as it was an easy walk from camp to the crags. It was fun to check out some of the climbs that the famed Chris Sharma put up when he visited this same farm. According to the locals, his TV crew was not as nice.

Steve and Remi climbing at Shamu, Zimbabwe

Unlike what a lot of people imagine Africa to be, Zimbabwe is at a rather high elevation, with pleasantly cool temperatures, rolling hills, and gigantic lumps of granite pushing out of the ground here and there. These offer a splendid potential for high quality multi-pitch climbing. The land is lush and perfect for farming. Here’s a bit of trivia, though: Zimbabwe has one of the highest rates of lightning striking humans in the world. This is largely due to the elevation, a climate with a penchant for thunderstorms, and all the hills creating perfect landing points. Therefore, when you’re climbing on a cliff and see clouds appear on the horizon, with occasional flashes, you get down ASAP. The place is electrified.

We had a pretty wild lightning storm pass through right on top of us while at Shamu. It all started off innocently enough, with hard driving rain under which many of us took a full shower and I even shaved my legs – desperation removes all shame. However, when the firebolts appeared we all huddled in the truck and hoped the old wives’ tale of vehicles being safe is true. I tried to push aside recurrent thoughts of how we were all actually in a giant metal box which was also one of the tallest things in the field. Luckily, the lightning was more attracted to the cliffs we had just been climbing…

Showring in the rain (Photo by Remi)

The tents were another concern. The rain was coming down hard onto the now-soft spongy earth on which we were camped, which was a problem both for puddles and tent stakes not holding into the ground. Several people ran out into the downpour to dig trenches around their tents, only to discover that their tents had gone completely flat! One even FLEW AWAY completely. Duane went out in the night to check on his tent and returned a few minutes later, looking utterly bewildered, exclaiming “My tent has disappeared. It’s just… GONE!” It was not the time to go looking, so he spent the night in the truck, listening to the downpour beating on the metal roof and wondering what might have come of his tent.

In the morning, I woke up before everyone else (probably because I was one of the only people to have had a dry night’s sleep – so proud of my trusty little tent) and saw a couple of locals in a neighbouring field standing around something orange and bright – Duane’s tent! I hurried over and said “Aha! There it is! Ha ha!” and they looked at me and asked “Is this your house?” I laughed. “No, but it is my friend’s house… Last night he went looking for it and came back and said ‘My house is gone!’” The guys thought this was the most hilarious thing EVER, if only you could have heard their hoots of laughter… “heeee heee heee! The house flew away!” giggling and shaking their heads. I added “Obviously it is not a very good house” to nods and chuckles all around. The thing could not have looked more modern and high-tech – it is a “bomber” four-season tent. The locals were clearly thinking “These crazy foreign people proudly come here with these bright portable houses that are complete crap!” We each grabbed a corner and walked it right back to its takeoff point, still perfectly intact. When Duane emerged from the truck, he did a bit of a double-take.

Our next climbing stop was at an impressive bit of rock named Dema. When we rolled in to the area with our loud diesel engine, we cut out the music and a little elder appeared, wearing a name tag stating he was the village chief, along with an entourage of about 8 others. He informed us that we needed to get special permission from a local “king” (warlord?) who managed the area, if we hoped to camp and climb their special mountain. He and a lucky selected few went for a ride with us in BiRT (they will probably be telling their grandchildren of the experience for years to come) to meet said King at his heavily guarded compound. Even after scolding our leader, Emma, for shaking his hand (apparently, quite an offense – no one gets the privilege of touching the man’s hand) he seemed quite reasonable and fair, and allowed us to camp on the land after explaining to us how he manages the area. He also had us stop by the local police station to alert them of our presence. Amazingly, no bribe passed hands throughout the ordeal. It seemed more of a show of authority and pride than anything else. Definitely an interesting experience.

Dema

At Dema, we were an intense curiosity. Everyone, especially children, popped by for a visit at some point or another. Once again, we had instant rock star status. I was feeling a bit introverted – not in the mood to entertain crowds, but luckily some on the truck were quite up for it and there was a continual rather festive mood around the truck. Everything from spoon-egg races to painting to football games was going on at any one time. They were especially curious when they saw us gear up and walk toward the mountain – I’m sure it must have seemed like such a bizarre thing to do. Why would anyone want to waste time going to the top of that thing, the hard way, when there’s a perfectly good trail on the other side? Good question. :)

Emma entertaining some kids with a fish-face

Matt playing footie with the locals. (At one point, a rumor was circulating with the locals that David Beckham was with us)

Local woman with a beautiful farm-house

Kids of Dema, they were so much fun!

David and I teamed up once again to attempt a lovely 2-pitch crack called “Flash,” which we did anything but flash. Somehow, it took us three tries over three days to finish the thing. The first day we were rained off, and had to leave gear in the route to come down. The second day Drew joined us, and as a group of three, combined with my snail-like lead pace, we ended up taking much longer than expected. I found myself 2/3 of the way up the second pitch at sunset, with both David and Drew waiting below. It was they who noticed “Aw, what a pretty sunset… Uh oh… Sunset!!” Nightfall comes FAST when the sun hits the horizon near the equator, and we knew it would be pitch dark by the time I finished the lead. Then we had to get the other two to the top, descend a trail of which none of us knew the whereabouts, with no headlamps (when will I ever learn?). We would probably end up sleeping up there, and it got pretty cold at night, not to mention the continual fear of lightening. Thus, we came to a hard-pressed decision to retreat once again, myself lowering on a rather hastily prepared, sketchy anchor. I met the two boys in the inky blackness where they had been hanging quite uncomfortably for hours, and we set up an abseil using a camera LCD to light our knots as we tied in. Luckily, we managed to catch another couple on their descent of a neighboring climb and yelled down to them, asking if they could go back and fetch us some lights for the hike out. We safely made it back to the truck.

While the retreat was definitely the right decision – we would have certainly spent the night on top of the mountain had we kept going – it meant that we left gear stuck in the route at two anchor points, amounting to a good portion of our rack which was therefore not available for the start of the route when we returned, on the third day, to finally nail it. This resulted in a bit hairier of a first pitch for David, as many of the pieces he had used the first two times were no longer available. He basically soloed much of the (harder) first pitch.

The day was baking hot; the boys roasted in their hanging belay while I sweated up the first and moved on to lead the second (easier yet dirtier) pitch. I tried to hurry along a little faster this time, all too aware of my tendency to over-think things. At one point, I was pulling on grass and scrambling up a steep and dirty ledge when I thankfully reached for a huge jug that I remembered from the day before. Aiming for it, I grabbed it solidly with both hands. Suddenly, silently, I was falling backwards in mid-air with one stone in each hand. Luckily I hit the same sloping, grassy ledge not too far down and was completely unscathed. Just a little shaken up. ;) The boys below saw a bunch of slack come down and called up to see what had happened. I was checking myself to make sure I was OK, and started up again, trying even harder to keep my head in check. I reached my anchor from the night before and began to disassemble it. One of the pieces virtually fell out as I tugged on it. Gulp. Next came quite possibly the worst rope drag I have ever experienced. I couldn’t move before heaving the rope up with both hands and making a little coil at my feet. Finally I reached the end – it never felt so good to finish a route!

Unfortunately, I didn’t take my camera up the routes so I don’t have any climbing pics to share… if I get some from David I’ll see if I can post some up. For now, a few more pictures of the zoo that was our camp. ;)

Bouldering on BiRT, Dema in the background

I love the expression on the girl's face at left

A local home in Dema, Zimbabwe

Mother and Child

The mother here was stunningly beautiful and the little boy was terrified of me, bursting into tears the moment he saw me. Mom and I both laughed. :)

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Posted in Africa

Tags: BiRT children climb climbing dema fall flash hot rock lightning retreat rope drag shamu storm tent truck zimbabwe

Getting ready for the Big Red Truck

September 6th, 2007

I am clean. What can I say? I smell good. I sleep in a comfortable bed with pillows and fresh white sheets, a fluffy duvet, and have a fully equipped bathroom just next to my room. In the morning, after hitting snooze 16 times, I join hordes of commuters on the Tube (pending no strikes of course), pressing into the sardine-like crowd, taking care by all means to not make eye contact with anyone and to apologise if someone steps on my foot. This much I have learned since moving to London

It’s hard to believe, but I only have three more weeks of work before I am off on a ten week climbing adventure in Africa. First stop: Namibia, where bed will mean the floor of my tiny one-person tent with dirty clothes as a pillow. Evening entertainment will consist of gazing at stars (do they really exist?) and waking to something other than a scorpion, I hope. I’ll be joining a giant red Scania truck that has been refitted to equip 20-30 rock climbers, crossing Africa overland in 2008 and the Silk Road in 2009. They probably smell. And so will I.

The Big Red Truck (BiRT)

I’m not just giving up my bed and shower, but the comfortable job. I sit at a pleasantly cluttered desk and read email and nod dutifully during meetings. Then there’s the odd pint after work, joining colleagues for a chuckle over emails sent for the day. I can’t complain. I actually like my job for the most part, which is a rare thing these days. And as a bonus, I get paid regularly.

Did I mention I am clean? Smell good, and alll that? Maybe I am too comfortable.

The Hot Rockers have already started the trip and are currently in South Africa. Just thinking about that, that right now there is a group of people in a giant red truck with a bouldering wall hanging off the back and that soon I will be there too, is a bit nuts. It feels so abstract when I’m sitting under fluorescent lighting.

I’ll be part of the crew from Windhoek, Namibia until Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania. Countries we will pass through in that time include Botswana, Zimbabwe, and Malawi. This will be my first major undertaking in Africa and I don’t quite know what to expect. Include smelly climbers in the mix and it adds to the… flavour. I only hope this doesn’t become Big Brother on a Big Red Truck.

A big red truck, fondly known as BiRT. Hey BiRT, I look forward to meeting you.

This article originally appeared on MSN UK Travel. View screenshot here.

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Posted in Random Thoughts

Tags: Africa climbing hot rock msn

Hiking, Climbing, and Paragliding in Peru

July 19th, 2006

Hello hello! In Peru now. Showed up late one night to Lima and was warmly greeted by some friends of my mother, who ended up being incredibly hospitable and helpful. Definitely a great first impression to the country. :) I’m lucky because many travellers don’t like Lima all that much, but I had a pleasant time, mainly due to my friendly tourguides!

I have a bit more of a love-hate relationship with the northern Quechua countryside folk, however. While it was certainly fascinating to see people dressed the same way they have for centuries, with colorful dresses and ponchos, felt hats, and sun baked wrinkles on their hands and faces… I have never seen such audacity to ask for presents, handouts, and even steal things that were loaned to them. It is disappointing and has unfortunately affected my respect and attitude toward some of the locals. I have tried very hard to overlook and/or come to terms with it, but this has proved difficult. I so wish that I felt differently. Even in Cambodia, where people were begging everywhere (and definitely needed whatever one could give), it wasn’t quite like this. It is one thing to be in need, another to stoop to dishonorable practices to get ahead. This is not begging. It is manipulation and guilt-tripping. That aside, however, the people have been pretty nice. Apologies if anyone has taken insult to these comments.

I digress…

Immediately after Lima, I cruised up to Huaraz on a cramped night bus. The guesthouse I stayed at in Huaraz (La Casa de Zarela) is awesome and I highly recommend it. It is full of climbers from all over the world who are there to climb impossible routes in the Cordillera Blanca. I get along with these people, even though I am by no means on their level of adventure-seeking. They make me look like a giant pansy. They would certainly scoff at the giant centipede story… ;) Anyways, it’s been a blast to hang out with these kinds of people again, even though I’m back to speaking English and am successfully screwing up both languages.

Alpa Mayo, a popular climb

One guy actually came across a dead body on his way to a climb. The man he found had apparently tried to paraglide off the summit, EIGHTEEN YEARS AGO, and didn’t make it. He had been frozen in a crevasse all this time. It was quite a story – the man’s sister came out from Slovenia and they were working on body recovery logistics while I was there. A bit emotional for all.

An old college buddy of mine, John, was in Huaraz with his climbing partner, Asa. They were planning on going into the Huascarán and up an unclimbed route in the Pucajirca group, deep in the Cordillera Blanca on the Amazonian side. I decided to join them for the trip, as camp cook and caretaker (otherwise known as “camp beotch”) while they were up on the mountain. It got so cold at night that even the olive oil froze. Yes, we had olive oil! Burros (donkeys) and what I call “Ass Masters” (sketchy burro owners, see second paragraph) helped us bring all our stuff in, so we were able to throw in a few extra luxury items.

Lake near the Pucajirca

It took us a few days to reach base camp, climbing over 14,000+ foot passes and crossing valleys and rivers. We were out there for eight days in total. The boys kindly loaned me some of their cold weather gear, as I was by no means equipped for such a venture. While they made their attempts, I went on solo hikes in the area and had an absolutely lovely time. There were no other people around. Unfortunately for John and Asa, they did not summit (in my view, this was fortunate, as there were avalanches and rocks and ice coming down that mountain constantly, and the last thing I wanted was some sort of Touching the Void experience…). :)

Alpa Mayo and its moraine lake from the rarely seen "back side" taken during one of my solo hikes.

A fun self portrait, "Eaten by the Rock Ness Monster"

It would have been nice to have had more time back there, but unfortunately after about 5-6 days it was time to look for a new “Ass Master” to help us out of the valley. We walked several hours and finally happened upon an attractive young family, and the man agreed to help us carry our load out of the park to the East.

Quechua family. John in back, I am in the front center. The man to my left guided us out of the park.

We made the trip in good time, had a few items stolen, and finally capped it off with a crazy 9-hour overnight bus (if you can call it that) ride. We eagerly gorged ourselves on a giant breakfast back at the hostel in Huaraz. Overall the trip was absolutely amazing, and I would love to do it again sometime.

After just 2 days of resting sore muscles in Huaraz, John dragged me (almost literally) up a 5,780m (approx 18,900ft) mountain: Vallunaraju. This is considered a warmup peak for the real climbers. It pretty much kicked my ass – I’ve never been so tired in my life. Not only was it the highest I’ve ever been, but I haven’t really done any alpine climbing, other than a couple little peaks here and there, in YEARS.

Climbing up the back side of Vallunaraju, the summit in the distance.

We were going to go up the “easy” glacier route, but in the dark of morning, in typical John-and-Diana fashion, we couldn’t find the trailhead. We “decided” instead to go around the mountain to the back side, ascend it’s steep rock faces, traverse to the summit and descend our original planned ascent route. Sure, let’s make it harder, why not? Oh, and also people usually do all of this in 3 days, but we did it in one, door to door of the guesthouse. So yeah… I did mention I got my ass kicked, right? ;) But in a strange masochistic way I loved it. Being on the summit was a great feeling. I guess that’s why climbers climb.

Climbing up the rock faces of Vallunaraju's back side

Climbing Vallunaraju

John on the summit of Vallunaraju

Finally, I escaped Huaraz (hard to leave, really enjoyed myself there) and am now in Cusco, getting ready to see Machu Pichu at some point. Best part is, though… when I got here, I ducked into a random bar, sat with some random people, moved with one of them to another random bar where we met a girl and her friend who will randomly be on Wheel of Fortune in a few weeks, and then a random paragliding instructor sat with us and we all decided to go paragliding the next day. Random! :) Best part is, we were all girls! Good times. So, of all things to do after that whole body-discovery experience in Huaraz, I go PARAGLIDING the moment I get to Cusco. And you know what? IT WAS AWESOME. :)

Paragliding near Cusco

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Posted in South America

Tags: alpa mayo climbing cordillera blanca cusco hiking huaraz huascarán paragliding peru pucajirca quechua vallunaraju walking

Cat Fights, Dog Fights, Stick Fights, and Stupid Poultry

September 15th, 2005

In Malaysia, it’s cats. In Indonesia, it’s roosters. And on the east coast of Thailand, it’s packs of wild beach-dogs. There’s always something making a racket at odd hours of the night and early morning. Organic “Free Range” chicken has a new meaning… your dinner is running under the table!

I last left you in Malacca, the stately Malaysian town. Since then I’ve shopped in Kuala Lumpur, scurried through Bali and Lombok islands in Indonesia, and finally ended up back in Thailand. That’s the short version.

Petronas (Twin) Towers, Kuala Lumpur

I travelled with a Kiwi bloke named Shea and an English Gap Year Kid named Dom, who happens to be a Harry Potter look-alike, for about 6 weeks. Indonesia is a good place to have guys along; being a girl solo here would have been a bit more annoying, I think. When you see women going fully clothed into the water, you know things are conservative.

Swimsuit not needed

Stick Fighting

So what’d we do? We went to Gili Trawangan, an island with no motor vehicles (notice the garbage buggy below) and very loud roosters that never learned that you’re only supposed to crow in the morning. Overall, it was a nice island, but I was ready for more adventure and a break from the beach. So we went off to climb a 3,726m volcano (Indonesia’s second highest) housing a deep blue lake in its crater – Gunung Rinjani.

Garbage Buggy

The walk lasted 3 days, up and over the mountain, and we all underestimated the climb. Of course, the porters did the whole thing wearing flip-flops or barefoot! Check out the terrain in the pictures and you’ll see how impressive that is. Harry and Shea wanted to kill me for dragging them up the mountain. I’m not kidding, they were actually brainstorming various methods of torture for me as they walked, and this disturbingly seemed to give them renewed strength to continue onward. Hm. Unfortunately Shea didn’t make it to the top, but Harry pushed through and we shared some summit time and spectacular views.

Shea and Harry (Dom) plotting to kill

Me and our tiny little guide, with Kiwi Dan in between, on the summit

Token monkey shot

Next was a surfing adventure in Kuta, Lombok. We took lessons from an “instructor” who said such helpful things as: “There’s a wave! Go! Go! Go! Now AHHHHHHHH!!!!” while waving his arms and pointing frantically. Meanwhile the wave would appear suddenly crash down on you and you tumble in a giant, natural washing machine. Funny thing is, that’s actually what you do. You see a wave, and dammit you GOOOO!! Hm.

Surf's up!

Following this, our waterlogged selves made it to the artsy town of Ubud, back on Bali Island. We stayed there about a week, where I got a crash course in chess. We randomly went on a MISSION to find a hand-carved wooden chess set for Shea, who taught me how to play. It took me four weeks to finally beat him. Now I’m addicted and am carrying a chess set with me everywhere, hoping I can find people who play. Maybe I should just stamp “geek” on my forehead? One thing I really like about the game is that it passes all language barriers – you can play with anyone, even if you can’t speak to them! The body language during the game is entertainment enough.

Learning to play chess

The last stop in Indonesia was Legian, Bali. This is near where the Bali bomb went off four years ago. We surfed again (read: got pummelled) and visited a western-style theme park called “Water Bomb” where I felt like I was back in the States or Australia. It was a little disturbing actually.

Don't ask what I'm thinking here... clearly, I'm not!

After Indonesia, I headed back to Thailand. Ended up on the east islands, namely Ko Pha Ngan, the island famed for its “full-moon parties”… which are basically a brilliantly marketed way to get thousands of people to visit the island once a month. I dutifully avoided the full moon so it was a lot quieter than it is reputed to be.

Sunset in Kho Pha Ngan

Ko Tao was the last island stop, famous for its diving and snorkeling. I went on two dives and on the first there must have been 75 other people in the water. It was ridiculous – of course I didn’t see many fish! Not to mention our useless divemaster – he actually RAN OUT OF AIR before his 2 clients, on a 45 minute dive, and had to use my octopus on our ascent! wtf. The snorkeling was phenomenal though, and free. I wish I had an underwater camera casing so I could show you how amazing it was. I even came across a shipwreck – SNORKELING!

Now I’m on my own again and heading north. I’d still like to see Chiang Mai but I hear it’s flooded at the moment, so I’m once again in Bangkok trying to figure out what’s next. Maybe I should go to New Orleans!

Slideshows:

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Posted in South East Asia

Tags: bali chess climbing diving gili trawangan gunung rinjani hiking indonesia ko pha ngan ko tao kuta lombok legian monkey snorkelling stick fighting surf volcano

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