Posts Tagged ‘desert’

Climbing adventures in Wadi Rum, Jordan

April 7th, 2008
Wadi Rum

The red sands of Wadi Rum

Jordan’s sunny disposition and warmth makes it one of my top recommendations for an alternative break. Easily accessible from Europe, it is surprising there aren’t more visitors to this country. There is something for everyone here – ruins dating back thousands of years, stunning scenery, and numerous activities for the outdoor enthusiast. The famous Bedouin hospitality is as of yet unspoilt; the generosity of local people is astounding even as tourist numbers increase and put a strain on the custom. It is truly a unique location, and now is the perfect time to visit, both in terms of tourism and weather (being spring).

Camels in Wadi Rum

Camils amidst the giant walls of Wadi Rum

I am currently camped in the town of Wadi Rum, which rests quietly within a geological wonder. Sandstone mountains sitting on basalt and granite bedrock rise sharply from a flat sandy valley to heights of 1,700m and above. It is a scale that is difficult to imagine even while standing humbly in their presence. Deep, narrow canyons cleave the hard mountains where wind and water carved passageways over millions of years. Ancient Bedouin paths weave through the canyons and offer walks unmatched in the world. The Jordanian government has recognised this as well, and about 500sq km of the area is now a national park, protected by the Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature (RSCN).

Wadi Rum Town

Wadi Rum, Jordan

As little as 35 years ago, this growing village was comprised of a sleepy set of Huweitat Bedouin tents. Today it has paved streets, houses, and 1,500 people who all seem to be related in some way. The modern day Bedouin drives a 4×4 pickup truck with (no joke) his camel in the back and uses a cell phone to chat with family members in camps scattered throughout the desert. Even those who now live in houses are still connected to their nomadic roots. Luckily for them, the national governments have respected this heritage. Locals here can cross the nearby border into Saudi Arabia without passports or visas, and their family on the other side can do the same.

For tourists, Wadi Rum is often an intermediary stop, an afterthought, between the famous Petra to the north and beach resort of Aqaba to the south. Many do not quite know what to expect or what to do here on arriving, looking out the coach windows to see camels in back gardens and friendly taxi drivers and guides reclining lazily in the sun. Inevitably, they realise they did not allot enough time for this gem of a location.

Camel in Wadi Rum

Happy Camel

Activities in the area include jeep rides to remote valleys, camel treks in the desert, canyon walks and scrambles, and horseback rides. Bedouin guides can be hired from the local tourist office or taxi stands – everyone is knowledgeable about the area. I highly recommend hiring a guide for the more adventurous scrambles and walks in the area. This is one of the few places left in the world where locals will surprise you by going above and beyond expectations to ensure you have a pleasant stay in their area. Tea is always on offer, and one friendly taxi driver even invited our group of 15 to his house for dinner. People have welcomed our grimy, dusty group with open arms. It is unfortunate that I cannot do justice to the concept of Bedouin hospitality. It is genuine, honest, and by far the most generous I have ever encountered.

Hot Rock Camp in Wadi Rum

Hot Rock Camp

The Hot Rock group spent 10 days climbing and exploring in Rum. The rock climbing is spectacular, with “short” routes at 4-5 pitches long and the longer climbs upwards of 11 pitches and 700m. Aside from three days of desert bush camping in Barrah Canyon, we pitched our tents at the “Rest House,” a sandy lot on the north end of town complete with restaurant, toilets and showers (tel. +962 032018867). What more could a girl ask for? It is a comfortable camp, the only minor annoyances being tourist busses who park in the neighbouring lot during the day and the occasional loud barking dogs at night. It is in an ideal location for walks and climbs, and also near several shops covering the basics for food. Internet is still not available (for tourists) in Wadi Rum and there are only one or two restaurants, which to me, greatly adds to its appeal.

If you are looking for something different and enjoy the outdoors, I can strongly recommend this area for your next adventure.

This article originally appeared on MSN UK Travel.

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Desert, Thievery, Vomit, and Anniversary

May 9th, 2006

I just realized my journal smells like campfire. Hm.

My last week in Chile was up in the Atacama Desert, followed by an interesting trip back to the capital, Santiago, as well as a night in Valparaiso on the coast.

In the desert, I camped again. One morning, I awoke at the crack of dawn to embark on a 50km mountain bike ride through the “Valley of the Moon” to see the sunrise, completely alone. It was fantastic, and quiet. Somehow I also ended up going up an unanticipated giant hill. I was off route. By that point, it was well into the sizzling day. My original 30km became about 50km, with only one bottle of water. Pretty exhausting, but worth it! Afterward, I ate a massive lunch in a pizzeria with a crusty old French cook and a friendly Uruguayan waiter.

Biking in the Atacama Desert

Biking in the Atacama Desert

On the road again, Atacama Desert

On the road again, Atacama Desert

Self portrait. Previous photo was taken in the valley below, left.

Self portrait. Previous photo was taken in the valley below, left. Yeah, it was a big hill.

In the afternoon I randomly decided that *sandboarding* sounded like a great idea (this is the Uruguayan’s fault), and hopped back on another bike to ride out to some sand hills. Oh, it was a blast. :) Would have been easier with a chairlift… All in all, a very active day.

Sandboarding

Sandboarding

Met a couple of Argentines that are chefs at the Four Seasons in Buenos Aires. They kindly cooked up a feast for me that night, of which I puked the entirety around 2am, and 5am, and 7am…  I also managed to puke through our salt flat tour the next day. I’m sure the other tourists loved it. And the NEXT day, same tour group, had diarrhea. In the desert… in other words, no vegetation behind which to hide. It was interesting finding sudden moments of privacy among rocks and boiling geysers, but luckily nothing terrible happened, and though I was so sick I could hardly stand, I got some pictures that will remind me forever of the amazing scenery. I didn’t really eat for a few days after that. I’m still not sure what caused it, but am wondering if perhaps all that excercise in the super-dry desert might have shocked my system enough to set it off?

Am so ill here, but enjoying the scenery

Am so ill here, but enjoying the scenery

Be it the sickness or the incredible touristy-ness of San Pedro de Atacama, I wasn’t as impressed with the place as I’d expected. I think it would have been more enjoyable with my own transportation. My favorite excursion was the bicycle ride, which was also the cheapest… Anyway, I think either a bicycle or a motorcycle/car would be the best way to explore the area. The tourist herds were a little too much, not to mention expensive.

Next, I headed back to Santiago. This involved several loooong bus rides,as well as a day hitching in a semi truck with a guy that’s been driving trucks for 25 years, 6 days a week. Showed me pics of his kids and we had an interesting conversation. (He’s never left Chile!) I appreciated the ride and he appreciated the company. I tried to pass myself off as an Argentine for the first hour, and somehow managed (though he later admitted something seemed a bit strange). It was a good challenge, but I couldn’t keep it up, for my own sanity, and had to confess that I was actually American but wanted to see if I could pull it off. He was amused. I think. See, Chileans dislike Americans almost as much as they dislike Argentines. I’m not really a very good combo in these parts.

I briefly headed to the coast to check out the historical city of Valparaiso, older than San Francisco but very similar in many ways. The first night, fresh off the bus, a guy wearing an extremely bright orange hoodie ran up to me, grabbed the purse hanging off my neck with both hands and yanked as hard as he could. (It made a mark.) I screamed at him and tried futiley to kick him – I had way too much luggage hanging off of me to do anything. I Unfortunately for him, the straps on the bag did not break. I almost with they had – the only things he would have won were a chess board and a deck of cards. I could imagine his face as he opened it up. And really, What self respecting street criminal wears a bright orange top? I wanted to pull the young buck aside and give him a few tips, not to mention a good punch in the face… but before I knew it he was sprinting away, no doubt disappointed. The whole street was watching… looks like I’ve got some good lungs. ;) A couple of nice, older tourists offered to walk me to my hostel.

Valparaiso, Chile

Valparaiso, Chile

Anyway, Valparaiso proved to be an interesting city. Many people don’t like it, preferring the cleaner beach-resort towns nearby. It was exactly the kind of place in which I enjoy walking around, though. Every turn brought a new surprise. It has twisted hills with colorful old buildings where I lost myself, was told I looked like a Chilean college student so needn’t worry about pickpockets (uh huh), and had a fantastic lunch in a very elegant restaurant where the waiters were obviously surprised at a “table for one, please.” The lunch was so tasty I took a picture. ;)

Lunch in Valparaiso, Chile

Lunch in Valparaiso, Chile (with my campfire-smelling companion at right)

Finally, it was on a plane back to Seattle to finish up my UK work visa. Tomorrow I head back to South America for a few more months before going to look for work in London.

Today, it’s been a year since I started this adventure. Hard to believe how fast time flies. Life keeps changing and that’s the only thing that remains constant.

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They Call Me Papa Frita

March 28th, 2006

If there were ever an update where I really hoped you guys would check out the pictures, however disorganized, this is the one! :) I’ve been hiking in Patagonia, spent about a month in a tent, and hung out with some interesting people. It’s been an adventure… everything I’ve been looking for!

Ushuaia was fantastic. Situated on the Beagle channel, you could just imagine Darwin and his crew wandering around, meeting the locals who lived naked in the cold (apparently they lathered whale grease on their skin to keep warm). Saw a bunch of penguins, sea lions, interesting birds, and the sky which was ALWAYS interesting to watch. I managed to get myself lost and found in a random valley, as well, which was quite exciting.

Dancing Penguin

Dancing Penguin

I visited the old prison in town (that’s how the town was born, like Staten island… and Australia) :) and partook in a “tour” where they dressed everyone up like convicts and marched us around, yelling, shut us in cells, etc. That was an interesting experience. We couldn’t stop giggling, which just got us yelled at more and more. :) Funny to think we paid to be treated like that!

I didnt do it!

I didn't do it!

Next came Chile and the Torres Del Paine National Park. That’s pronounced PIE-NEH, not PEN-NEH, which is what I did for a while, effectively calling them the “Penis Towers.” Yeah, I´m going to go hike the Penis Towers. I need a tent for the Penis Towers. Have you seen the Penis Towers? Are they very big? Has anyone climbed the Penis Towers recently? How hard are they? Etc. I’m surprised it took as long as it did before someone spewed water all over the table.

Torres del Paine, Chile

Torres del Paine, Chile

Cesar and Julian freezing as we wait all toooo long for sunrise. Misinformed!

Cesar and Julian freezing as we wait all toooo long for sunrise. Misinformed!

What. a. spectacular. park. Did the circuit hike in 6 days.. a bit too fast (they recommend 7-9) with two Chilean guys, Cesar and Julian. I met them in my hostel in Puerto Natales, and given how much they took the piss out of me for the amount of food I had spread out in preparation for the hike, I figured they had ample experience in the mountains. Only when we’d actually set off and they ATE all the food did I realize they didn’t have as much trekking experience as I’d originally thought! Day trippers. ;) We had a great time, though… they provided the comic relief and I the food. Ha. By the end we were like a giant married couple – oscillating between genuine bickering and roaring laughter. As for actually walking, they were fast, which was great. We were going about 20 kilometers a day with 20 kilo packs. We passed a LOT  of people. I was happy to be with Spanish speakers, not to mention locals! They kept trying to “fix” my thick Argentine-Gringo accent and called me “Papa Frita” (French Fry, or Chip). =) No one knows why.

Glaciar Grey

Glaciar Grey

Lago Pehoe

Lago Pehoe

After the Torres, I headed back into Argentina, past the Perito Moreno Glacier to El Chaltén, home of Los Glaciares National Park and Fitz Roy , another spectacular granite peak.

Perito Moreno Glacier, Argentina

Perito Moreno Glacier, Argentina

Fitz Roy

Fitz Roy

This time I stayed in a free camping at the base of the trail into the park and hung out with some bona fide hippies. These people were the real thing, hearts the size of melons. One Columbian guy had been travelling for 25 years, all in South America and made a living off of making wire keychains in a tent. There was an American who played the Dijeridoo (sp?), an Aussie climber who spoke French and Spanish, Chilean brothers who continually played music, and then the French “Rasta” group who made string bracelets and necklaces with the Argentine ceramic artist who got his materials from the local stream. Another Argentine girl was a yoga instructor, and I had my very first yoga class trying to balance in the strong Patagonian winds, face in the sun. Amazing.

Ali the Colombian, travelling 25 years

Ali the Colombian, travelling 25 years

We had a grand “Asado” (Argentinian bbq, meat grilled over coals), hosted by Jesus who had a voice like The Godfather. :) I didn’t eat a bite of it, unfortunately, as I’d earlier gotten sick from eating some bad mayonnaise. That was fun. Wake up in the middle of the night, crawl out of the warm sleeping bag into cold wind and rain, teetering to the outhouse to projectile-vomit into the hole in the floor. Mmmm. Followed by diarrhea the next day. Weee! That’s for those of you who think all this travel is a continual paradise.  ;) Let’s just say I´m over my post-hike bread + mayonnaise craze. I know it sounds disgusting, but it’s gooood down here. :) No fridge, so no more.

Jesus (drinking the wine) hosted an Asado

Jesus (drinking the wine) hosted an Asado

When I finally got OUT of El Chaltén (stayed a few more days than I would have liked because busses only leave in the direction I was going 3 times a week, not to mention the getting sick part), I had a 30 HOUR bus ride where I met a Paleontologist who was telling me all about the history of the area – the fossils she´d found and petrified forests… definitely something I want to go back to see! She also had quite a cocky attitude in approaching Sudoku, and got extremely frustrated when it posed a challenge. Interesting bus ride, for sure.

30 Hours to where, you ask? To El Bolsón, near Bariloche. They say the local mountain is one of the “energy centers” of the planet. It has hippie roots and was the first in the world to declare itself a nuclear-free zone. They don’t give you bags in the grocery stores to take your food home. If you don’t have dreadlocks (or at least long hair) you feel a bit out of place. Once again, I stayed longer than I should have. Partly due to recovery (getting over the illness plus extremely long bus ride), partly due to sheer laziness. Not to mention the best ice cream EVER and a nice little market where I bought a ring and necklace and promptly lost them. After all the hiking and rough weather, it was nice to be in a calm, sunny place for a few days… or a week, as it were. It really reminded me of home, actually. Pretty much the same latitude!

My El Bolson Campsite - mine is the purple tent. Energy center mountain in background.

My El Bolson Campsite - mine is the purple tent. "Energy center" mountain in background.

FINALLY escaped El Bolsón’s mysterious clutches and made my way back into Chile. Here I’ve picked up the pace considerably. Phew! Climbed a live volcano (nearly passed out from the sulfur fumes at the top) but didn’t get to see any lava, and then descended it on a mountain bike. This was the most extreme mountain biking I have ever done. Put those eyebrows down, I haven´t done much. But it was enough to get the heart racing a bit! Good day.

Volcan Villarica - summited on foot, mtn biked down. Fun day!

Volcan Villarica - summited on foot, mtn biked down. Fun day!

Summit of Volcan Villarica

Summit of Volcan Villarica

Mountain bike descent

Mountain bike descent

Then I met up with Cesar and Julian again in Temuco! We went out a couple of nights and danced until dawn. It was certainly a change of scenery for us three – I was used to all of us being grimy and tired, and here we were in actual civilisation and shaking the hips to “Reggaeton,” a Latino-Reggae-Hip-Hop combo that is ever so popular down here.

Moving North. Last night I visited an observatory in Vicuña and saw planets and stars through a pretty big (though not the biggest) telescope. It was amazing! Also visited the oldest Pisco brewery in Chile. Pisco is the national drink here – it’s a liquor made from white wine. YUM. :) Now I am in the north of Chile, camping in the Atacama desert.

Pisco brewery

Pisco brewery

I’ll be home again for a month in April (working on the UK visa) and then it’s back to South America. Weee!

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