Fingers tired from climbing and bums sore after some long drive days, we arrived at the base of the gigantic Mulanje massif in Malawi, rising violently some 2-3,000m from the plains surrounding it. The entire area is a national park with huts located throughout, offering weeks of potential European-style hut-to-hut walks through lush rolling hills. While climbing is possible, the walking potential was too good to pass up. The Hot Rockers broke up into groups and set loose, some for adventure scrambling, some for climbing, some for walking, with varying degrees of preparedness. ;) I set out for 6 days and 5 nights of hiking in the park. The experience was nothing short of magical.
We began by a combination of hiking and hitching to another end of the park along with few other Hot Rockers who were on a scrambling mission. We started walking in the heat of the day with sweat streaming, especially for Duane who insisted on carrying most of our food. “Training,” I believe he said. The man had something ridiculous like 18 cans in his pack. Cans! They go against every grain of my hiking body. That’s what happens when you plan a 6 day hike at the very last minute. End result: his shorts were completely drenched in sweat by the time we reached the top of the plateau. At least we ate well.
Mulanje Massif, as seen from the base
Hot Rockers already tired, and we haven't even started the real walk yet. From left: Duane, Matt, Emma, Drew, David, Jase
As usual, we were an attraction to local kids as we started out. :)
A very welcome cool stream made the perfect lunch spot. Here David splashes Matt in a "waterfight"
After slogging up a steep hill for several hours, we finally topped out on the plateau and were stunned by the scenery. It really did look a bit like Europe! The air was fresh and cool, there was green grass, trees… with the occasional Mulanje Cedar-Cutter walking past us with a freshly cut cedar plank balanced on his head. I should mention they put us all to shame – 18 cans look like nothing next to a several-hundred-pound board balanced on the head. Worlds were colliding and it was beautiful. Our first hut was called Thuchila, and a fire was already burning in the hearth when we arrived.
Drew hiking up Mulanje
Woodcarver putting us to shame. These guys cut down the rare and highly coveted Mulanje Cedar trees, carve them into large (and heavy) planks and carry them all the way down, barefoot.
David finally topping out on the Mulanje plateau, hands raised in victory!
The next days saw us through varying elevations – to the top of the highest mountain in Malawi to lower forests, microclimates, fields, pools, and huts. We met some interesting folks and walked with more spring in our step each day, as the cans were eaten. ;) Everything was so… GOOD that we found ourselves repeating “This is soooo cool! Again!” every 15 minutes or so. I put it right up there with Patagonia as one of the best places I’ve ever gone hiking, and the best part is there were hardly ANY people. Stunning. Remote. Peaceful. I’ll let the pictures do the rest of the talking.
Peace Out
Me on the summit of Sapitwa Peak (3,002m or 9,850ft)
Rocking Out
The Pacific Northwest meets Africa
Bouldering in a pond
I woke up in the middle of the night to use the loo, saw the stars, and decided to write Hot Rock in the dark. :) We were staying in Chambe hut, which you can just see in the shadows.
For more pictures, see the Flickr Malawi set.
